July 24, 2006
How To Replace the Color Wheel in Your Samsung DLP Television and Save $400
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I’ve got one of the early models of the Samsung 43″ DLP Television sets. We’ve been through a lot together, but it’s just a fantastic picture. I love it.
Thankfully, I purchased the extended warranty for 4 years, because I’ve been through 3 lamps. However, as always, something went wrong after the warranty expired. It started a few months ago, a buzzing sound. It started out pretty soft, like someone was holding a very thin wire in the blades of a running fan. As weeks passed, that sound increased, and finally it became an all-out scream (just in time for the World Cup).
Inside this television are only two moving parts that could cause that sound, the cooling fan and the color wheel. I know about the color wheel because I’ve seen it talked about over and over again on the Internet. I think the service guy may have mentioned it once or twice when he was here replacing the lamp. With all that mention, clearly this thing has issues. And, I can see the fan, and it doesn’t spin at the same time that this sound is produced.
What’s a color wheel? I’m not sure exactly it’s purpose, but it has a small motor and it spins at about 9000 RPM. The older model Samsung televisions are plagued with the problem where the bearings in this little motor go and starts to sound like a banshee, or at least what I imagine a screaming banshee to sound like. Anyway, it’s pretty bad.
It needed to be replaced. There was no longer any putting it off. I happened to mention it to a BestBuy sales-kid and asked him where I should have it fixed. He said I could just call a local Samsung authorized repair shop, or “you could just repair it yourself.” The words echoed in my mind. I never considered that possibility and I dreaded the thought of my television being picked up or dropped off and gone for weeks. When I got home, I went online and found a few forums where guys shared that they successfully replaced their own color wheels and that it wasn’t that difficult. Say no more…
If you have the same problem and are thinking about fixing it yourself, it really isn’t that difficult. If you’ve ever taken your PC apart, this is not much different… The process involves about 20 screws, 5 or 6 cables to unplug, and of course put it all back. The toughest part about these projects is knowing what to take out and where to look for the part you’re replacing. The first time, I took out quite a bit more screws and cables than necessary. I did it again to write this article and now you don’t need to think about all that.
- BP96-00250A
- HLM507
- HLN4365W1X/XAA
- HLN467WX
- HLM4365
- HLM507WX
- HLN4365WX
- HLN467WX/XAA
- HLM4365WX
- HLM617
- HLN4365WX/XAA
- HLN5065
- HLM437
- HLM617WS
- HLN437
- HLN5065W
- HLM437W
- HLM617WS/XAA
- HLN437W
- HLN5065W1X
- HLM437WX
- HLM617WX
- HLN437W1X
- HLN5065W1X/XAA
- HLM5065
- HLN4365
- HLN437W1X/XAA
- HLN5065WX
- HLM5065W
- HLN4365W
- HLN437WX
- HLN5065WX/XAA
- HLM5065WX
- HLN4365W1X
- HLN467
- HLN507
- HLN507W
- HLN567WX/XAA
- HLN617WX/XAA
- HLP5063WX/XAA
- HLN507W1X
- HLN617
- HLP4663W
- HLP5674W
- HLN507WX
- HLN617W1X
- HLP4674W
- HLP5674WX/XAA
- HLN507WX/XAA
- HLN617W1X/XAA
- HLP4674WX/XAA
- HLR4677WX/XAA
- HLN567
- HLN617WX
- HLP5063W
- HLR5677WX/XAA
- HLN567W
- HLN617WX/XA
- HLP5063WX/XA
- L62A
- HLN567WX
Purchase a Color Wheel
I found a few different places that carried this replacement part. The cheapest by far was Partstore.com who carries it just over $100. So much cheaper than the next lowest I found that I paid for overnight shipping, and still did better. I ordered it on a Monday, it shipped on Tuesday, my television was fixed on Wednesday.
My television is model Samsung HLM4365WX and the color wheel part number for that is BP96-00250A. This color wheel is used in many, many Samsung televisions, but you should confirm that your model is on the compatability list
The Repair Job
Requirements:
- Philips screwdriver, not too small and at least 5 inches long. There’s one screw that’s a reach.
- Tiny (jewler’s) screwdriver. You may not need this. I needed it to get a connector off.
- Tweezers. I needed them to get to a few screws in tight places.
- Compressed air. I didn’t have this, but I wish I did. It’s dusty in there.
- Pen and paper. I took copious notes. If you do anything that I don’t talk about here, you should write it down. I carefully documented every cable that I unplugged and every part I removed. Thank God I did that.
- 1-2 hours (first time I did this, it took 90 minutes. Second time 60 minutes, with photography)
- Nerves of steel and air conditioning. Don’t drip sweat into your television.
Notes:
- In this document, left and right are “stage-left” and “stage-right”, or the left and right sides of the set as you look at the back, facing your sofa.
- Almost all of the screws are identical. You can safely keep them all in the same cup, or pile on the table, or carpet, or wherever you store the screws.
- Don’t touch anything that looks like light will shine through it, like the projector lens or the colorwheel itself.
- DON’T rely on this document entirely. Pay close attention and take notes or digital pictures.
- If you were just watching your TV, your projector lamp will be HOT. Let it cool down.
1. Remove the back panel from the television set. The panel runs the entire width of the bottom rear of the set. There’s no need to remove the access panel for the lamp. That’ll come off with the panel. There are 14 screws.
2. Remove the projector lamp. This may be unnecessary, but (a) it let’s you see your target (the color wheel) and (b) it just seems like the safe thing to do. It’s easy. Just unscrew the two brass screws holding it in. It’s on the right side of the TV. The screws won’t come out, just pull them out with the whole unit by pulling on the handle and sliding it straight out. Carefully store it somewhere safe.
3. Remove the panel on the left side by removing two screws holding it in place. Carefully slide it and the attached PC board out a few inches until cables stop you. You won’t actually need to remove any cables from this board to get at the color wheel. (Of course I removed most of them the first time.)
4. Carefully note how the power cable is positioned in the set, and the route it takes out the back. Once you have done that, pull the power cord out of it’s notch in the bottom of the case. It’s blocking the next part that has to slide out.
5. Remove the center panel. Remove the two screws in the bottom that have larger heads than the rest. You don’t need to take off the regular sized screws that fasten the back panel to the base. They’ll all slide out together. Remove the top two screws that hold the panel to the plastic case.
Center panel. The two screws on the bottom have larger heads than the rest. Remember that these go here. There are two more screws on the bottom that hold the vertical panel to the base. No need to remove them. If you do, things get a bit floppy.
6. Slide out the center unit slowly, just a few inches and take a peek inside as you do. It’s a snug fit, so you’ll need to ease out both the top and bottom at the same time. Some things to notice as you do this. Look at how the projector lens is fitted inside a foam sheath. You’ll need to put that back later, so take a good look.
There are a few cables on the left side restricting it. You’ll need to unplug these:
- blue/brown two-wire power cable. You’ll need to unplug this from the main set.
- blue/white cable connecting to the left side. Squeeze the plug to unlatch it and remove it from the center unit that you’re removing.
- Sensor switch on the right side. Unscrew this from the tv case bracket.
This arrow is pointing to two of the cables. Follow the brown/blue one to the other end to unplug it. Right behind this arrow is the white connector for the white/blue cable.
Here’s one of the screws that are different. Remember to use the smaller brass screw here later.
Now you can slide the center panel and all the parts behind it out of the television. If you didn’t remove any cables on the left panel, you’ll have to swing everything over to the left to clear the television.
Note: Steps 7-9 are removing the bad color wheel. I suggest doing these steps carefully, as if you were going to need to use this color wheel again. You never know if you may need to reverse what you’ve done.
7. Locate the color wheel cover. It’s got a small green circuit board on top of it with a black/blue wires connected to it. Remove that plug. Also, and this is the trickiest part, remove the two cables coming from the color wheel. One is a copper-colored ribbon cable. That will just slide out easily. The other is a cable with two white and one blue wire. This one is tricky to remove, so you’ll need to ease it out. I pried it out with a jeweler’s screwdriver. DO NOT just pull on the wires.
Note: A reader made the following excellent suggestion to avoid breaking the white connector on the end of the blue/white/white wire:
Having replaced quite a few of these colorwheels as a Samsung service tech, I have found that you do not have to remove the blue/white wire from the DMD board (avoiding the risk of damage to the optical engine) There is enough slack in the wire to route it around the cover when removing it. You can then unplug the wire from the old colorwheel and plug it in the new one (the plastic tab will break off the old connector when you go to remove it,but it will still fit snugly on the new colorwheel) Using this method I have had no problems reusing the old connecting cable
Color wheel cover view from top-down. This part has three screws and slides straight up.
8. Unscrew the color wheel cover. There are three screws holding it in place. One to the rear of the set, and two in front. The one to the rear is tucked way in, so I just unscrewed them and carefully left them in place and pulled them out with the cover. Slide the cover straight up, exposing the color wheel. As you do, note where the color wheel wires go — out the gap in the front.
9. Remove the bad color wheel. The color wheel is held in place with three screws. Remove the screws and the color wheel. The color wheel may be stuck in place with the foam tape, but that’ll give with a small tug. To remove the wheel cleanly, I lifted the front edge and slid it toward the front.
10. Insert the new colorwheel. It can be tricky to do this without touching the wheel, or bumping the wheel into the case. (This is where you need the nerves of steel). Once you get the proper angle, it will slide into place. Don’t force it — remember, this thing needs to spin at 9000 RPM, it’s probably pretty sensitive. At first, I tried to put it in place with the screws already in the holes. This didn’t allow me to slide it in properly. Lesson learned: put it in without the screws and then hold the screws in place with tweezers, if necessary.
11. Put the color wheel cover back on with the wires out the space facing the front of the case. Make sure the wires reach their destinations, and screw in the cover. Three screws. Attach the three connectors. The metal contacts on the ribbon cable face the rear.
12. Put all the guts back in place. Slide the center unit back in. Without touching the projector lens, open up the slice in the foam so it wraps around the projector lens, and slide it in the rest of the way. The center unit can only go in on it’s track, so again, don’t force anything. Connect the two wires you removed on the left side. They should only go in one way. Did I mention don’t force anything? Screw the sensor switch onto the bracket on the right.
13. Put the power cable in it’s slot. Just the way you noted on the way out.
14. Slide the left PC board and panel back in place. There are two screws that hold it in place that you screw in now, the rest hold on the access panel.
15. Put the projector lamp back in place and screw it into place. I forgot to do this both times.
16. Put the access panel back on and screw it in (14 screws)
17. Plug in the television, say a prayer, and turn it on.
Update
A number of people have commented that after changing the color wheel, their red and blue colors are reversed. This is a different color wheel and a newer model set than is documented here, but, some report that by removing a jumper on the color wheel, the problem is resolved.
The jumper is as shown in this picture, below the yellow/white label.
Thanks to Tref for the picture!
WE PUT A NEW COLOR WHEEL IN AND NOW WE HAVE NO PICTURE AT ALL
I just found out after replacing my color wheel the light Engine has also gone BAD and they no longer have Part cost was $1,000.00 so if your trys to come on 3 times and then shuts off Bad Light Engine THROW TV AWAY!!!!!
Thanks for the info…. I went back to the TV set and checked the Green light indicator… it flashes twice and then I hear a chrip….and off it goes… It doesn’t flash 3 time at all… So I just don’t know what is going on… I hope it’s not the light engine..
hey everybody just changed my color wheel on my (hln567wx/xaa). cant find the jumper i dont have a white/yellow sticker or a window to pull a jumper. do anybody have this model.
put everything back together. when i turn it on it doesnt chrip or do anything. but i have a steady LAMP(green)/TEMP(red) blinking…HELP
Did you close the lamp cover? I just replaced my wheel and was trying to test it out before putting the cover back up, but saw the same thing. Turns out the lamp cover triggers the sensor which causes this lights to blink when left open. I closed the cover and my TV is working! THANK YOU for this detailed instructions!
Yes, I have checked the lamp cover and the safety switch is working properly….. of the switch is on the off or open positon the green and red light comes on… However, if it’s on the green light flashes twice and you hear a click……. and everything goes off….thanks for your help…
my tv is doing the same. Green light flashes and two clicks. Any fix yet?
check your lamp door safety switch…..or the line going to it.. or the connector to the switch…
I changed out my colorwheel on my samsung (hlr4667wax/xaa). The picture looks great but my components now look green and black. Any info. would be appreciated.. Thanks
I have the same problem. I installed a color wheel and my picuture is fuzzy and the blacks are green. my picture is like its bleeding. can you help me
I have the same problem. With my HL-P5063W I installed a color wheel BP96-00674A A and my picuture is fuzzy and the blacks are green.Just like the in the UPDATE,I removed the jumper. TV works Great
Took about 90mins. everything works just great except I lost my remote operations….could I have disconnected something inadvertantly?
Did you find out anything regarding loosing your remote functions. I have the same exact problem. Everything appears to be working fine after replacing the color wheel, but the remote has stopped working. The light on the front of the TV that used to show when a remote button was pressed are not lighting up any more. Any Suggestions?
Hope someone had same problem and fixed it before I go tearing into
the back again looking for a loose connection.
Let me know and I will too
I fixed it, I had not plugged in the first cable I unplugged. I got in rush to get it back together. Whoosh!! I thought I had really messed up!
Dean. Can you point me to the cable or wire you reconnected
In addition to these great instructions, I found a video on You Tube of a guy who recorded himself replacing his color wheel using what sounds like these instructions. It was great as I had my laptop right there and was able to pause the video as needed. If you just search You Tube for “Samsung color wheel replacement” the video should be one of, if the not the very first, returned search results.
Now to my dilemma. I replaced the color wheel. My model is different so some of the steps were a little different, but all in all it went well except for one minor issue. After replacing the color wheel my TV will not turn on. The lamp looks like it is in good shape; the filament is intact and the housing looks fine. I took the back of the TV off again and made sure the lamp was slid in properly and securely (which it is). BUT, I still get no picture, no sound and only the green and red blinking lights come on indicating there is a lamp issue.
I’ve read some where others have had this problem as well. I see a couple responses about a switch that has to be in the correct position for the TV to turn on and another about the copper ribbon coming from the Color Wheel needing to be flipped over. Can I get some more detail on the switch that has to be in proper position and where that is and how to get to it????
Any other definitive solutions to this problem. Will I have to buy a new lamp even though the one currently in the TV looks fine?
Thanks for help in advance.
Red and green blinking means that the door for the lamp is not correctly installed. There is a switch on the lamp door, and the wire to it may have come unplugged in the service. Try there first.
Part BP96-00674A is an Air Bearing color wheel. Look at the DMD board to the
right and up from where the DVI looking cable plugs in. You should see
CN810. It will probably have a jumper in it. Remove the jumper. That tells
the board the the new wheel is an Air Bearing type instead of the FDB type.
Also, when you finish that, with the power off press Mute-1-8-2-power. The
set will come up in a service mode. Select DDP1011 then Index Delay. Adjust
until the bar is a uniform red color.
Corey Brazell
Audio Video Electronics
12169 SC Hwy 121
Newberry SC 29108
—–Original Message—–
From: techassist-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:techassist-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Hugh @ Main TV
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 3:07 PM
To: techassist@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [TechAssist] Samsung color wheel problems–need info.
We have a Samsung DLP with noisy color wheel bearing, we ordered new color
wheel from Andrews for model HLP6163WX/XAA TV
They sent us part #BP96-0067A, DID NOT WORK–color was all bad–we ordered
another color wheel—same problem–color very bad. They say this IS
the right part number. Is there some sofware fix in service menu for this
new type color wheel? New color wheel fits, but looks different from
original wheel.
Note: Old wheel works–color is ok, bearing is very noisy. Vance Baldwin
web site calls for this same number as Andrews!
help!
Hugh Thornley
I have the same problem–reversed colors after changing the color wheel. But what do I do if I have no jumper?? I do have the sticker about the CN810 jumper, but no sign of a jumper anywhere on that panel, and yes, I do know what a jumper looks like. I even tried looking under the sticker. My TV is an HL-R4266W.
You have a great blog here and it is Nice to read some well written posts that have some relevancy…keep up the good work
Thanks for the tutorial. Even after your warning, I still managed to damage the power cable/connector (blue & white) on the PC board that connects the PC board to the color wheel assebly. Is there still hope? I’m assuming this small connector is semi-standard and can ordered & soldered. Correct? If so, any idea where I can get it?
Sellers, I too broke the same piece. Can’t be found anywhere. I looked at over 43 electronic stores and on the web. You need to go back and buy a color wheel with the blue and white wires and the copper cable. I did and returned my first purchased color wheel. The only solution I know of.
THANK YOU! especially for the last instruction… say a little prayer. the buzz saw is gone. I have a 61″ and some of the cables you mentioned didn’t need to be unplugged, and some others needed to be. but step by step I followed your advice and it worked. PERFECTLY!
I was hoping the color wheel would be all screwed up and melted so that a new one would give a better picture. it wasn’t so bad. wires were a little melted, but the color portions were fine, except for a few nicks…
HOWEVER! the hugest boon to the whole ordeal was when I looked at the lens that came out of the foam cover. not the lamp, not the wheel, but the big “eye” that shoots up. THAT was covered in dust! Took a wipe for sunglasses, and with no water, just wiped till I saw no streaks or specks… I swear, the picture has never looked so sharp and clear.
THANK YOU! without this post, I wouldn’t have had “the nerves of steel” required to do this job. now, I bet I go back in there to maintain the DLP here on out. Played Fallout 3 on it last night… drop-jawed at the difference.
I am at a lost, and maybe you guys can help me out. I have a SAMSUNG HLR5678WX/XAA television, the screen is zoomed in at the top left hand area (that is all that I see). I am at a lost my friend who work on Samsung TV thought it might be the Digital Board. So I went and bought one and we replaced it… still the same issue. I then paid for a Samsung technician to come out, and he claims that it’s the lens. He wouldn’t give me the part number since I know how crazy labor charges can be… does anyone know what the part number, and maybe know how to swap it out?
HELP…… I have a Sansung HLM5065W… Green light indicator comes on when you press power, the green light blinks twice and clicks…..TV never turns on… I have replaced the Lamp, Ballast and Color Wheel… Nothing has helped… Can anyone please help me with this PLEASE…
javiercerna@satx.rr.com
I had the same problem. With my HL-P5063W.On the color wheel make sure the metal contacts on the ribbon cable face the rear.
Hugh, I have double checked the connection to the Color Wheel and the metal contacts does face the rear of the TV…. I was very careful when I replace the color wheel…. The green light has been flashing twice and then you hear a click and everything goes off from the time the TV went out….It has to be sometype of indicator that tell you what isn’t working, but I certainly don’t know..
Thanks, Javier
Thanks so much for this great resource. I just replaced my color wheel using these instructions and so far things are working great.
I have an HLN5065W that had the wonderful screeching color wheel. I ordered a new color wheel only and reused the old housing. If I had to do it again I would’ve paid extra for the one with the housing. My ribbon cable off of the color wheel was WAY too short. There’s a hole on the rear facing side of the color wheel cover I ended up routing it through which worked well.
First time I got everything back together nothing worked. When I turned the TV on I got the normal startup beeps along with a long tone. The TV would try to start and then after cycling 2-4 times do the 3 light blinking thing with no picture. I took everything apart double checking connections. I found the color wheel screws were loose and ribbon not seated all the way. Tightened the screws, reseated the ribbon cable and BOOM, worked great.
My suggestion on this procedure? Take your time, relax, wear gloves when messing with the color wheel and test it before putting it all back together. Good luck! n
You guys rock! I fixed my color wheel but never knew why the color was screwed up…..A little jumper that needed to be removed. THANK YOU SO MUCH.
Just replaced the color wheel on my HLP4363, had color problems and then removed the Jumper. Looks Great. Thanks everyone.
After a technician replaced our color wheel on our Samsung
HLP4663wx last fall, I watched him reset the correct specs
for the new color wheel. Ever since the picture has been
terrible when watching dark scenes. It is as described in
earlier post from other owners. I have looked in at the
location of the jumpers, and there are two. One with a
blue/white coming from the sw at the lamp door, and another
that is black/blue. I am assuming it is the black/blue to
unplug. Does the entire cable need to be unpluged or just
on the Dmd board.
Well, after checking back through older posts, I found out the jumper is in the hole under the yellow/white label. I
checked and mine was already off. I used the earlier post instructions to get to service
mode, and changed the bar to a uniform red, then readjusted
my colors with normal tv controls, and things are much
better. Just so others realize, the jumper is NOT one of
the blue/white or blue/black wired jumpers on the Dmd board.
i’ve been told to double check the chassis number on my hlr4266w, but the tag on the chassis says l3 but other components have l6 etched on them. which is correct i need to know before i order the color wheel, help !
The instructions are very helpful and gave me confidence to tackle the job. I have 56 inch. It has a little more wiggle room. Though not exactly the same, it is substantially the same as your 46″. I took notes, and photos. There are 11 basic steps. My color wheel had shattered. While I had it open, I took the opportunity to clean out the fragments of glass and then all the dust. I vacuumed where I could and used alcohol and Q-Tips to clean the 3 fans blades. Thank to comments I was able to minimize steps, and noted which way the little ribbon from the color wheel faced into its slot. The little 3 wire connector from the wheel is a caution. Getting it seated is critical. Not sure what was different but, I had to unplug and replug the wires, tighten screws..3 times before it would work. Another tip on the 56″, the safety switch on the access door to the color light has to be disconnected in order to remove the light module. Best to un-clip the end at the circuit board. Its a real pain to put back on if you unmount the switch itself. But finally got it going!!! Incidently, I have a Monster UPS/Conditioner on the power to the box. I am certain that is why we got 20,000 hours out of our first light bulb that is supposed to last 5,000 hours. Fluctuations and power loss really hurt bulb life. I saved $300 by doing it myself. The $400 charge for replacing is a TOTAL RIPOFF….Someone with experience could do this job in about 40 minutes. Thats, with labor at $300 thats $7.50 per minute. Again thanks for posting and everyone’s comments good luck to others.
Re: Curts Reply
I have my Samsung HLP4663wx back to normal, with a good picture and all. I noted in Curts reply that he had approx 20000 hours on his first bulb. I also had a very high amt
of hours on my first at around 18,600. Incidentally I also
have my power all through a Monster UPS/Conditioner.
I have a HLN5065W. Picture is ok, no color (CTV or DVD). No noises. Is this the color wheel or someting else. New Lamp about 12 months ago.
Sounds like the same thing I went through except I heard a loud crack when turning on the tv. Thought the lamp was bad but when I took the lamp out I saw that the color wheel was broken. I suggest trying that remove the lamp and shine A light in the little hole the lamp shines through. If you don’t see the wheel that’s probably the issue.
This site is amazing, thanks for all the info. Karen
Used these instructions and they worked great. Luckily the colors were fine also so it booted right back up. Thanks a bunch for the help.
This page was a blessing. I was trolling through craigslist and saw an ad for a 50 inch DLP for 50 bucks. Owner said the tv made a screeching noise and it was out of warranty and not worth to fix.
I picked up this TV on a Monday got a new color wheel today and tv is working beautifully.
The only hitch I had was the lamp switch kept turning the tv off. I taped it in the up position and it works awesome!
THANK YOU SO MUCH!
This worked perfectly for me, thanks a ton!
I have a Samsung HLN507 DLP purchased in 2003 that had a very noisy color wheel. Your instructions were of immense help in replacing this at the least possible cost. I got a wheel from Riverside Electronics for $89. It took me about 3 hours with some tinkering and now my DLP again works perfectly and quietly. The tip from the Samsung Tech to unplug the white blue wire at the color wheel rather than at the DMD board is a good one that I used. Thanks for the information.
We have a Samsung HLN5065W purchased in 12/2004. All of a sudden last week while watching the US Open he picture started to go out and a loud horrible screaching noise came from the rear of the TV. The noise continued after I turned it off for a few seconds. Have been researching on the internet since then and I am leaning toward a bad color wheel. We are hesitant to take it to any repair shop because I just don’t feel you can trust anyone. ANy advise or comments if my hunch is right on the color wheel? Also, if I repalce the color wheel would it be a good idea to also repalce the lamp?
Mark
Don’t be too intimidated by a digital tv. It is similar to
tearing into a computer, you just unplug it from the power
source, remove a bunch of screws, unplug about 5 or 6 jumper
cables and slide the entire platform out. Then you can place
the digital shelf platform with the color wheel on it to a
well lit area and slow take it apart. Reassemble using a
reverse procedure. Its not hard. When you get a new color
wheel, the spec’s for it are with it. They will be different from the color wheel that was in it originally.
How to go to service mode is also posted above. Reset those values and you should be in there. The lamp is old
and will probably not last long if it is original. Read
everything you can on this website, and you should be ok.
This was a great help in changing the color wheel. Unfortunately when i got it all back together i get the lamp light flashing and then all three lights flash. I opened it back up and made sure all the wires were connected properly and made sure that the switch behind the lamp cover was not being tripped. IS there anything else i can look at? The tv is over 5 years old so i have ordered a new lamp, but i want to be sure it works when i replace it.
The lamp was working before i removed it and the filament didn’t look broken or anything. Is it possible the lamp broke while i had it out of the tv? I really hope replacing the lamp solves my problem.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot.
Devin,
I had the same problem. I rechecked my connections and found that I had the copper wire from the color wheel in backwards. All is good now
I tried that too. It was in correctly. I guess i will find out more when my new lamp comes in a few days.
I have a samsung 50 in model hlp 5063w changed the color wheel and now when i plug the set in it comes on by itself. I have sound but no picture and it shuts off after about 30 seconds and repeats this process. please help
i have a samsung hln617w, have that chainsaw noise, i looked at the fans seems alright, so i guess it is the color wheel ,
the tv shuts down after some seconds,
my question is the power off happens still because of the wheel or something else ?
thanks
good sound, no picture, wont turn off
i have hln617w. just replaced the color wheel with the instructions provided. only about an hour to do. great instructions!
TV was working fine. I moved it onto the table hooked up the cable and everything worked fine for about 10 minutes. then the picture went black. sound is fine. can see that lamp is still lit. even more wierd, it wont turn off. remote does nothing. green light on tv flashes when you press buttons to the remote but no controls at all. side buttons on tv dont do anything either. have to unplug to turn off. 11pm and too late to pull it apart tonight.
HELP
nick, I have the same exact issue. If you figure it out please post your solution. Thanks.
after unplugging last night and trying to turn back on the lamp would NOT light. again good sound, can hear the color wheel spin up, no excessive noise. I know i have the ribon cable hooked up correctly because it did work for a little while. I was hoping maybe something came loose when i moved it but just took the back off again and re checked every connection i could. just to reiterate. TV will turn on with remote or side power button. good sound no picture…no lamp. single (middle) green button flashes. can not turn tv off. tv will try and cycle 3 times then all three lights blink 2green over 1 red and sound goes off.
I have ordered a lamp???? we’ll see!
Hi there,
I have a Samsung hl-p4674wx/xaa which has been giving me many problems recently. At first the tv would irregularly turn on and now when powering on the tv, the power light blinks for about 30 seconds a session and attempts to turn on 3 times. This sequence is followed by 3 lights blinking simultaneously. At, the beginning of each power session there is slight clicking as if a relay is firing. But, there is no bulb or color wheel activity.
Thus, I initially attempted to replace the bulb. This didn’t do anything. Then I figured I’d try to replace the ballast and color wheel. After replacing the ballast, the tv booted once, but the picture/color was very distorted (and I noticed a faint whining noise). I then replaced the color wheel. Initially the tv refused to boot, but after a few attempts I was able to boot the tv system once (and it ran perfectly!). However, since I turned off the tv that session, I have not touched the tv and it has refused to start again. I have the service manual, but it doesn’t explain much of what there is to test. I have access to a multimeter in case there are some test voltages I could take which may help. Any assistance or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your response.
Also, thanks to the OP for the instructions. They were a HUGE help, and I would have probably struggled much more taking out the color wheel without them. The pics were excellent.
Mark
I am have the same issue with the screen shifted to the left after replacing the color wheel. How did you get that corrected Tom?
I reset all the values to the manual's specifications and BINGO my TV is back.
Thanks to all that posted responses in this website, we have saved around 800 dollars in fixes between the lamp, color wheel and color adjustment.
Good luck to all that decide to save money by doing it on their own
Diana
I just tore mine apart and then found your instructions my color wheel plates where shattered
How do you reset the to the manuals specs.? Thanks!