September 29, 2006
Samsung DLP - How to Replace Fan #2
You turn on your Samsung DLP and get a blinking message on the screen “CHECK FAN #2″. You may also notice that the cooling fan in the back of the set turns on but then stops.
Here’s the procedure from a reader (thanks Ernesto) who replaced this fan himself and told me about it.
First, the part number you need is as follows:
Fan #2 for the HLN4365WX (and other sets, see list below) is
Part Number: BP31-00001A
Description: LAMP FAN ASSY
Where to buy:
It costs about $40-45 on Partstore which is about $20 cheaper than elsewhere.
According to Partstore.com, it supports the following Samsung television models:
HLM4365WX, HLN4365W1X, HLN467WX, HLN507WX/XAA, HLM437WX, HLN4365W1X/XAA, HLN5065W, HLN617W1X, HLM5065W, HLN4365WX, HLN5065W1X, HLN617WX, HLM5065WX, HLN4365WX/XAA, HLN5065W1X/XAA, HLN617WX/XA, HLM507WX, HLN437W, HLN5065WX, HLN617WX/XAA, HLM617WS, HLN437W1X, HLN5065WX/XAA, HLP5674WX/XAA, HLM617WS/XAA, HLN437W1X/XAA, HLN507W1X, HLR4677WX/XAA, HLM617WX, HLN437WX, HLN507WX, HLR5677WX/XAA, HLN4365W, HLN467W
This may seem expensive for a fan, but it actually has electronics in it to maintain speed and temperture. And apparently it can cry for help.
Getting the fan out is not trivial, though no more difficult than replacing the color wheel. In fact, to take the set apart, you’ll wanto start with the process for replacing the color wheel.
Once you have the set open, you’ll find the fan as seen in this picture.
There are two fans, and fan #2 is the larger one that is facing the back of the set. You can actually see it through the grates in the back of the set.
The fan itself is screwed into the black enclosure that can be seen in the above picture. It’s difficult to impossible to unscrew the fan from that enclosure without sliding out the whole part as if we were replacing the color wheel. Once you slide that out, you can unscrew the black box with the screws in this picture.
This will free the box so you can access the fan screws.
All in all, a bit less involved than replacing the color wheel. While you’re in here, you might want to locate the color wheel in case you do end up with that problem in the future.
Again, you can purchase the fan #2, part # BP31-00001A at Partstore.com.
Please comment here and let us know if you perform this procedure, and do fill us in on other details that may help others.
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Thanks Scott … TV is now working. Only “snag” I ran into was that the replacement fan did not have this foam type tape wrapped around the perimeter as the original fan. It would appear that it’s for vibration, but it also makes the fan’s size larger which “holds” it in place once you puch it up into it’s assembly. Only other thing that holds it in place is a small metal bracket held by 2 small screws. I ended up going to Lowes to buy some outlet cover weather proofing foam (very thin) & cut out 4 1″ wide strips to lay on all 4 sides of the fan & then taped it around with black electrical tape before pushing it back into the assembly … the set now works again. I sent Samsung an e-mail inquiring why they don’t have that attached to the part already as you couldn’t take it off of the old one to put on the new one.
Great, Mike. I’m glad it worked out.
Thanks for the tip about the foam. I’ll add that to the entry.
Had to replace color wheel, lamp and fan? I’m going to make sure never to buy a Samsung DLP
Not the fan for me.
And these are old sets. I don’t think the newer ones even have color wheels any more.
I second that! You seem to now be an authority on Samsung TV’s
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=samsung+dlp+fan
WOW, look at that. I didn’t notice the SE rankings.
(This is an SEO blog, after all. I fixed your link, Jeremy.)
I do love the television. It’s going on 5 years old now, and I think this is what I get for buying one of the first generation of ANY technology.
Well, I had been having pretty good luck with my HLM507WX. Bought it in March of ‘03. Replaced the fan myself in May of ‘05. Then this month, the CHECK THE FAN 2 message started coming up. I could bump the back of the set and make it go away for a long while, but it would eventually come back on. Using your excellent instructions, I replaced it today. I verified that the new fan was turning, and buttoned everything back up. After watching for about 30 minutes, the CHECK THE FAN 2 message came back!. Again, I could bump the set and make it go away. The fan connector seemed to latch and be snug when I attached it. Any suggestions?
Good information.
I decided to replace my fan but was surprised when I opened the box and to check it out. Here’s what I found. As noted, the Check Fan 2 message came on. I removed the back from the TV to get to the fan. I wanted to see if the fan stopped rotating so I defeated the interlock and turned the TV on. The fan started running. After a few minutes the Check Fan 2 Message wqas displayed. The fan continued to run even though the message indicated it had stopped or at least slowed down!
I got the make and model from the back of the fan and went to the manufacturer’s web site. The model is a G9225L12B2FS. The web site is http://www.oec.co.kr.
According to the web site this is a Tube Axial fan, 12VDC with a locked rotor output. As I understand this means that a signal is produced when the rotor locks (fans stops running). According the website the output signal goes high when the rotor locks.
I thought I may be able to trick it by pulling the signal to ground but first wanted to see what happened when the fan wasn’t turning. I unplugged the fan from the circuit board (3 pin connector) and turned on the TV. Got a new message, Check Fan 2 and Fan 3. Where’s fan 3?
So I buttoned the tv back up and decided I need more information. Anyone have any comments or ideas?
how do i know if it is the fan or color wheel? and if it is the fan, how do you know if it is fan 1 or han 2?
thank you
I have a HLN5065WX that has what appears to be an overheating problem. About two weeks ago, after the set was on for about 2 hours the picture developed flashing staticy bars with flashing negative type colors of the images. Watchable but just barely. After you turned the set off for an hour it was okay for about 1 1/2 hrs then started again. I thought maybe the lamp was deteriorating so I ordered one (+ a spare) next day. Installed a new lamp and it was good for 5 hrs. Now it is back to the 1 hour of good viewing, turn off and wait 30 min for another hr. SUGGESTIONS ?? FAN??
I have the same quetion as Tim. My DLP is making a horrible screaming sound. Sometimes is worst than others but it always quiets down eventually, maybe as much as 30 minutes after turning the set on. I had assumed it was the fan until Ire a about the color wheel which is in a similar position. Is there any way to tell if it is the color wheel or the fan making the noice? TIA, Carol
Carol, these type of fans are also used on some types of computers. I’ve seen a lot of them, but have never heard this type of noise. Normally they just quit. Based on that, I’d suspect the color wheel.
I am wondering, based on Bill’s story, if we are replacing fan 3 rather than 2. If so, where is fan 2 after all? I even bought the service manual, and it’s no help.
my hlm5065w is telling me to check fan no. 3 but i can not find anything referring to a fan 3. maybe reading what bill and hugh have written, it is fan 2, i do not know.
I have a Samsung HLN507W1X and it is making some kind of ticking noise, sounds like the fan is too hot, or maybe the lamp is too hot. Cant really tell where it’s coming from without opening it, but there is alot of heat coming out of the back. Before I have a repairman come out and look at it, any suggestions as to what this could be?
I have the same problem which I think is over heating (Dave Sheridan) Can anyone give me any suggestions.The Tv starts flashing and after I turn it off for a while I can watch for sometime again. Samsung DLP 61″
my samsung is a model hlp5663w - 56″ set bought in 2004. it is flashing the check fan #2, but recently we have been hearing a grinding noise in the set. also, several times we have turned set on and the color is off - too red or blue tints. we turn it off and wait several minutes and then when restart it is fine. do you think the color wheel is the real issue and not the fan #2? or both? does the tv flash a message “color wheel”? i would hate to take whole thing apart only to have to do it again for the color wheel.
please advise.
I got the “Check Fan No. 3″ message today. After some searching I wound up here. I see that others have had this same fan 3 message but nobody has said that they know where fan 3 is. Has anyone definitely figured out what/where fan 3 is? My theory is that fan 3 and fan 2 are the same, depending on model (I have HLN507WX). I can look through the back when I first turn on the TV and see the fan sputtering to get going. So if it is the fan I can see, based on everyone elses accounts, it seems like fan 2 and 3 are the same. I would like some confirmation of this before I purchase the fan that I think I need only to find out that I am wrong.
have a HLN5065NX, had to change the color wheel myself after 2 years and now have the black and white problem i’ve read about. TV turns on ok but after a while picture goes black with white pixels of last frame and then the three blinking lights (two green one red) go on.
i’ve read it could be the lamp, faulty fan(s) or faulty DMD. don’t know which one’s the problem on my set but i did notice that the air flow at the back of the TV is not as strong as it used to be so i’m thinking it’s an overheating problem. just like a computer if the components overheat weird stuff starts happening.
i’m going to replace the fans and give the TV a air cleaning. I’ll post my results.
great site BTW Scott, i had documented and taken pictures of the last time i changed my color wheel and had planed on posting something similar but you bet me to it. great job, must have saved many people lots of coin!
I have a Samsung Mod # HLR5667WX There was a thunder storm in my area. All lights went out. TV will turn on,I get a screen that reads: Weak or no signal. How do I reset the TV?? What is the problem??
HELP!!
I also have a Samsung 50′ TV. My problem is that I hear a reving sound when I turn the TV on. Sometimes the noise is loud, other times it’s faint. After a few seconds, the sound sometimes stops. There are times, I can still hear the faint sound while watching TV. I have replaced my lamp on two occasions. The first time the lamp lasted for three months, the second time it lasted for a few weeks. Keep in mind that the ‘noise’ was apparent before the first lamp went out as well as the second time. Could the frequent changing of the lamp be due to a faulting cooling fan? I am not going to watch my TV again until I figure out the problem. I don’t want to have to make another trip to the TV store to replace the lamp. I took the panel off the back of the TV and cleaned around the fan. There was very minimum dust. I don’t believe my TV is too old. I won it in a raffle in 2005. Any information will be greatly appreciated.
mel, most likely the noise is your color wheel:
http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/07/24/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/
One more concern, is the color wheel causing my frequent lamp replacements? I did read a few of the topics on color wheel replacements (very helpful)….I guess it’s time for me to go where no other woman has gone before. Good thing I’m electronically inclined. Thanks.
In response to the inquiry about fan #3; I’ve just replaced all 3 of the fans in my 50″ DLP. I found fan #3 under what I think is the DMD board. That silver perferated wrapped board in the center in the rear. I still get the “Check fan #3″ message on the screen and the set still shuts down after 2-3 minutes. Does anyone know what to do about this? Is there a fuse that governs fan #3 that can be replaced? Or do I need to replace the DMD board? I’d really like to see Tiger win his firs major this year, today! Thanks for your responses.
DOES ANY ONE KNOW WHICH WAY THE FAN IS SUPPOSED TO BLOW ON THE ELECTRONICS OR AWAY TO PULL THE HOT AIR AWAY FROM THE UNIT?
Hey all, I was just playing Madden ‘08 and my tv all of a sudden started blinking “Check Fan 1 2 3″. I just replaced the darn color wheel, now do I have to replace three fans? My tv is HLN617WX. If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate it.
Phil
To Rich and Phil
I’ve replaced all 3 fans, color wheel and lamp in my 3 yr old 50″ DLP 5065WX/ and now get “check fan #3″. I finaly had to take in for explanation/fix. I’ll let you know the outcome.
TLew
Thanks TLew,
I’ll check back every know and then to see how it went for you.
I had the same message, check fan #2. I ordered the part from the recommended site and just changed it. Unfortunately, it’s still not working. There’s a red temperature warning light on the front of the TV that is on. When I turn the TV on, it shuts off after 2 seconds. I just checked the fans, both are working. What next?
All who have fan issues.
I’ve jsut been informed by a disgruntled technician, that I need to replace the DPB digital power board for $325 intalled. This after replacing & installing myself the colorwheel, lamp and all 3 fans for $490 on parts.
Samsung should ashamed. they could have atleast provided a disclaimer with these sets at purchase, that they only last 3 yrs. Major components in a $3000 TV should last longer than 3 years regardless of usage. I’m ready to jump ship to another mfgr. Samsung Sucks!
Regarding your fans; get ready to replace em all and likely much more.
So you are saying the fan 3 isn’t a fan at all? that the message represents the DPB? I have replaced the fan (way in the back - i presumed fan 3) and still have the fan 3 message showing up. I was considering replacing the other 2 fans, but i can clearly see all 3 fans are spinning fine.
To Bradc,
All of my fans are working like yours but I still get the “check fan #3″ msg. Based on the technicians diagnosis, it seems the DPB board is getting hotter than the fan can cool it, so the msg appears. The program must be limited to that msg when this occurs. The only option is to take it in for service.
(bring vasoline)
I replaced fan #2 and it works fine, so far for about 3 weeks. Once you get the hang of it, the fan is easy to replace. It’s just annoying that I had to change it after onky 13 months of owning the tv. I guess I’m fortunate it didn’t cost me more. I agree: Samsung Sucks! I’ll never buy another product of theirs.
anyone know where fan number 1 is? And where I can buy a replacement? I’ve only had this 1 problem so far with the 5065w set. No other fan msgs or problems. I’d like to fix this 1 fan and see if that cures it.
mrtechplus@yahoo.com
Purchased a samsung dlp model hl-r5667w almost 2yrs ago.After about a year the tv would shut off by itself and the lamp light would blink a few seconds and go off,i replaced the lamp thinking that was it but it did it again within a day or two and does it still.Maybe once or twice a month it does it,but other than that still have a great picture.What could cause this?
I am having the exact same problem with my hl-r5667w that jay describes above. Any ideas?
The screaming or loud noise you all are talking about is coming from the color wheel. Mine did the same thing. I replaced the color wheel and found out it was shattered. The color pieces broke. So it makes noise. For those with the older DLP’s you might also want to replaced the balance. The newer lamp assembly might not be good enough for the old balance. My TV came with the older BIG LAMPBULB, the newer ones, the bulb is much smaller. Also, always use PHILLIP BULBS.
These TV’s are horrible with regards to reliability. Samsung should do the right thing and offer some sort of crddit to all who can show proof of purchase. I’m on third bulb and second power supply assembly in 4 years. Some parts are no longer available, and I mean nowhere.
got message fan 2 failure.just order new fan bp96-00251a hopefully right one.tv is hln437wx.also ordered new bulb as lower right of screen was dark.anyone else with this problem?
Have replaced bulb on Samsung model HL-P50674A but still no picture. Low humming sound and all 3 lights lit which means replace bulb. Fans ok, could it be the color wheel making low hum with no picture?
Well… My 50″ HL-S5086w is making the buzzing sound but, no on screen messages. SamsungUSA.com says it is the cooling fan. A whining noise would be the color wheel. The repairman I called for an estimate says it’s the color wheel anyway and wants over $500 to repair this $1700 TV I bought July 06. Also, repairman says to buy Hitachi next time as he has almost no calls on that one.
Hi folks,
My DLP HLN507WX gave me the 3 blinking lights one morning. Ordered a replacement lamp from Samsung parts and replaced the lamp, no luck, still get the 3 blinking lights. I noticed that the set beeps when I turn it on and the green light keeps blinking before all three start blinking. I don’t hear the fan running in the background and am wondering if it’s the fan. Never got any FAN related message ever. The TV won’t come on and I’m wondering if anybody else has had this type of a problem. Any help is much appreciated.
PCK
I have an HLN5065WX/XAA that has worked great for 2-3 years. Today, my son tells me that he turned it on earlier, it ran for about 5 minutes, then shut itself off. I now see that the red TEMP light on the front is on, but no other issues now after 10-15 minutes running. No owners manual - floor model at purchase. Any ideas, predictions, or warning instructions??? It sounds like I just need to prepare to buy an LCD…
I have not seen the check fan notice, but I have noticed that the fan is getting louder and louder. How do I know which fan to replace?
Hi Pck!
i suggest open the back and check all the fans and do general cleaning with a vacuum carefully. check all connections and then try again. green light blinking is standby state when it first turns on. Service manual states that 3 lights blinking means “It may have a fault or has burned out.” and to replace the lamp. since that didnt work, I guess the next thing is the inverter that powers the lamp. hope that helps.
Hi Don!
same like PCK, open the back and clean out with a vacuum. the DLP is like a computer, if the heat sinks are clogged with dust. it will heat up and actually kill the fans if it hasnt already. just be careful. that should help with the temp problems.
like my previous comment. heat kills electronics. make sure the unit is well ventilated. if not help it by adding an exhaust fan.
I am not a DLP techie, I’m a PC techie, and the problems are similar enough…
Hi Again PCK,
I forgot to mention a few other things.
the inverter/ballast get its 380v power from the power supply assuming that is good. then it could be just the ballast. assuming the ballast is good. then please check loose connectors. otherwise it might be the digital board or the DMD itself…an expensive repair.
Hello all,
i was looking at the schematics, and if i am not mistaken, it seems that these 12v fans are being driven at only 7-8volts. at least thats what i read from the SM of the HLN series…
i did notice that they dont run at full speed. that should help them last longer, reduce the noise and also suck in less dust…
Hello Again Don,
link to user manual.
http://www.retrevo.com/s/Samsung-HLN507W-TVs-review-manual/id/275dj989/t/1-2/
I’m not sure its ok to post the link Mr Scott. pls take it off if its improper with my apologies.
Chester KC - Many thanks! I’ll try that today. Isn’t the internet just the greatest invention since the Thermos?
Just got back from Iraq this summer after buying the HLR5667WX 56″DLP in Sept 2005 (so I haven’t watched it a lot)… screen went out about three weeks ago, called SAMSUNG which they let me know the 2 yr warranty expired Sept 07 (of course)… referred a repair company which never called. Had another guy come out who informed me it was likely the DMD board, but wanted to take the TV with him to “his shop”… sounded strange? Told him to call me back and we’ll arrange working on it in the house… he never called back.
Working with another guy - a referral - who claims this replacement job could run up to $1000 and the quality on these TVs are just horrible (across a lot of brands that is for DLPs).
Thinking about just scrapping it and buying an LCD in the near future, any thoughts from you guys?
Thanks to all who contribute to this site. I have a HLNWX?XAA it’s about 3 years old. i got the message Check the fan #1 I opened up the the back (after getting the courage to do so from looking at this site) and the fan behind the bulb was attempting to spin but was only rocking back and forth. It was rather easy to remove but is this Fan 1? It’s hard to tell. and could I not replace it with the same size fan from a computer perhaps.
By the way I am interior trim carpenter not a techie at all. But feel like I can handle this
Thanks for any guidance
Thanks to all who contribute to this site. I have a HLN4365WX/XAA it’s about 3 years old. i got the message Check the fan #1 I opened up the the back (after getting the courage to do so from looking at this site) and the fan behind the bulb was attempting to spin but was only rocking back and forth. It was rather easy to remove but is this Fan 1? It’s hard to tell. Could I not replace it with the same size fan from a computer perhaps.
I did find the exact fan at the parts warehouse mentioned on this site but am I hoping to get it running at least temporarily. and if I need to order more than one part I would like to get it all at one time.
By the way I am an interior trim carpenter not a techie but I think I can handle this.
Thanks for any guidance
I have a HL-P5685W that is just a couple years old. The lamp seems to have blown up a little inside instead of just burning out. There were some small shards of glass and the little screen between the lamp and the color wheel looks like it has a crack in it. Any idea what part number it is to get a replacement for this glass?
Also I got a replacement bulb and installed it and when I turn on the TV I get a flashing screen telling me to check fan #3. It looks like this is the one directly below the lamp and I checked and its not spinning at all so I ordered a replacement for that (part# BP31-00018A BTW). I wonder though whether the fan is actually dead or if its the control board for the fans. Any ideas on how I could test this? The fan did have a couple blobs of molten glass that had burned in to the plastic a little so perhaps that heat was enough to kill it but I’d love to test the fan on it own or something just to see if its really dead or not before I blow another $100 on ordering a fan (thats the cost with shipping from Samsung Parts which seems expensive but I don’t know who else would have it!).
Where is Fan #3 Located?
Just replaced my fan #2. Got the blinking message on Wednesday night. Ordered the part late that night. Was shipped on Thurdsay, arrived on Friday, and I just replaced it a couple of hours ago on Saturday.
Replacing it was slightly more involved than I thought.
I found I needed to get some wires out of the way and disconnect others from the main board so I could move the fan box properly. Of course this means you have to keep track of which set of wires goes where as you unplug them.
The fan itself is secured not using the screws on the fan itself, but using piece of metal along the bottom edge. You need a much smaller screwdriver for this one than the one needed to remove the back panel.
As Mike noted, there was a layer of foam glued around the original fan. I found that I was able to strip off enough of it and attach it to the replacement fan so that the fit in the fan box was a snug as before.
The TV seems to be back to normal for the time being. But I am not celebrating yet, as others here reported how the error message came back after a while.
By the way this is an HLN507W. I have had it for four years. I am generally happy with it. This is the first bit of maintenance I have had to do on it. I am still on the original lamp (5400 hrs and going).
Last but not least, I was grateful to find this site. Without this information, I probably would have had to call a repair company, and I am sure it would have cost me a lot more than the $70 it took to get the part over night. It might have also taken longer to get the fix done.
So thank you very much!
All - I just replaced my bulb due to black and white pixels - per repair man. Well still have the problem - I have an HLN4365w - any suggestions - Thanks very much
Ok so I thought my bulb was going out on my Samsung HLM507WX cause after about an hour or two of watching tv I would start to get this flicker of white and my picture would start to turn blotchy… So I pulled it out to look at it and put it back in and now all I’m getting is two lights one green on the lamp indicator and one red on the the temp indicator in the front… I have searched and searched the internet for something that says two lights on in the front but there is nothing… Just wondering if I really F’ed up my TV or if it’s fixable… I really love this TV and this is the first thing to go wrong with it in almost 5 years…
I was wonding if anyone has done this fan replacement on an HL-R5667W? Partstore.com lists four different fans and I am not sure which one is Fan 2. The part numbers listed on Partstore.com are:
BP3100010A, BP3100010B, BP3100011A and GP3100019A
Thanks!
Sorry, that last part number should be BP3100019A
Another successful replacement of fan no. 2! You guys are the best…period. Followed the directions and we back up and running in 75 minutes. When I first tested my fan after getting the message, the defective fan just rocked back and forth and never spun. Once I replaced the fan, we have television again.
The only tricky part for me was getting the nicely hidden 2nd brass screw holding the fan assembly to the unit. I had to get creative to get that sucker out. Anyway, Dave makes a great suggestion about using something soft to place around the new fan to create a snug fit. I used some 3M 2 way adhesive tape and it worked like a charm!
Thanks again.
My 2 year old sammy started making a noise about a week ago. To my IT ears it sounds like a fan noise. Most of what I read most people suspect the color wheel first. Can someone give me some insight as to what it might be
1. Noise is cyclical (like an out of balance fan)
2. Noise can start right away, even before the picture comes up
3. Noise continues when you shut off the TV, up until that final click you hear when the tv cools off
#3 makes me just think its a cooling fan. WHat fans are running when you shut down the unit, is it just a fan cooling down the lamp? if so, what Fan# is this?
Thanks in advance for any help
Rayman
My 61″ (HLN617WX/XAA) Sammy has the same sound you mention rayman. It sounds like a fan with a wobbly bearing/shaft. Its not loud but constant from the time I turn on the TV to the the point that the fan turns off after powering off the TV. It has been making this sound for a long time and the repairman replaced the light engine last time I had him out, and it didn’t fix the problem. He assured me the noise would fade after a couple of weeks with the replaced parts but no go. Of course by the time I called him back the warrantee had expired. The TV is working fine otherwise but the slow rumbling noise from the rear of the TV detracts from all of the lower-volume content of programs. I’m watching “The Bourne Identity” on HD as I type, and the picture is great but the noise takes away from what would otherwise be a great home theater experience. I’d appreciate it if somebody knew which fan is the “rumbly” one and if the part listed in this article is it and has a long-life needle bearing.
Thank you for any help you all can give and I’m happy to find a forum like this with so many much information!
ocstuhr-
Having the same problem with my HLM507W that I bought in November of ‘02 ($3800 at the time!). Called Samsung and “they never heard of this problem before.” And refused to be of any assistance because my warranty was up.
I replaced my lamp and initially the “flickering” subsided. But it is back to doing the same thing again after it warms up for about an hour or 2. The flickering then turns the picture into a photo-negative and becomes pretty much unwatchable.
I have read other websites and forums and it sounds like I need to replace my DMD board, which is about a $1000 fix. For that much money, I’d like to smash the set to pieces and send it back to Samsung, 1 envelope at a time.
Did you get yours fixed?
Has anyone had a problem of getting a “Blue or Purple picture?”
I also get guess you would say a jumpy picture also….But if you bump the set,or lift the set up and bump it down the pcture returns to normal for a while…..Any suggestions
Looking at the cooling fan, it seems to be nothing more than a 120 mm computer cooling fan. The supposed “sensors” that are in the fan are not- they are on the board just like they would be on a computer motherboard (which warns you when the fan fails) $40-45 dollars for this is outrageous. A 1200 mm computer fan costs anywhere from $4 to $20 depending on how fancy you want it. Has anyone tried using a standard computer 120mm fan to replace the one that came with the TV?
Mike, are you sure about that?
I don’t remember where I looked, but I did investigate this thinking along the same lines as you.
I found manufacturer info on fan itself online somewhere and if I remember correctly, it did have temperature sensitivity built into it
Well I am not sure but there are only 3 power wires- red, black and yellow, the same as any 12v computer component. So how would the fan be communicating a temp reading to the TV? Unless it has something to do with voltage levels I do not know. I see the worst happening is the fan runs at full speed constantly as it does not have a temp reading for variable operation
If it has it’s own temp sensors, why would it need to communicate? It just turns on and off as necessary (or goes faster or slower, not sure).
Again, I’m working off 18 month-old memories. I’ll need to dig up that spec that I found.
I am working on a HL-5687 and the internals are in a different config than the one in this guide. In fact the fan 2 in behind a bunch of things and Im not sure how to get at it without taking the whole thing apart, I will keep posting my progress.
I was not able to get the fan out- it seems a lot of the guts must come out to get at it. I decided not to take too much of the TV apart because it would be a pain. I did succeed in getting it at least exposed and studying the internals a bit. I am convinced that the fan 2 is a simple 120 mm fan w/o any special function. There is a separate temp sensor that is on a small board and runs to above the lamp unit with a cable- this must be what communicates to the DMD or motherboard. When it gets hot enough it probably ramps up the fan speed. So any fan should work I would imagine. Standard 3 pin mini power connector. I have seen quite a few things electronic (especially retail built comps) that overcharge on a cheap part and claim to be “special”- some OEM stuff tends to be that way. I called samsung because i forgot I still have a bonus 90 days on my warranty so I had to fax a copy of my receipt over to verify it. I plan on quizzing the repair guy when he gets over to replace it..
Hey guys, I got the Check Fan No. 2 Message also. I have a newer model. 5086. i bought it 10/2006. I’m the least handy person around, but I managed to take the back off. on the newer models, it was just a matter of unscrewing 2 screws and disconnecting 2 wire with clips. and then all the important parts slide out on one big plate. and there were good old fan #2. covered in dust. i sprayed it down with canned air, and dusted the rest of the parts too, and put it back together. and she’s been working great ever since. i unfortunately bought the fan first, so i decided to keep it just in case. however, try going with a good cleaning first. if i was able to do it, anyone can. thanks for the help.
alex
HA! so a few hours after i posted that about the cleaning. the check fan 2 message came on again. good thing i held on to that fan. oh, btw, on the newer models, you won’t need the foam. the casing for fan 2 is fitted with rubber cushioning. thanks again for the help
Alex,
I am just about to take my HLN 507W1 apart to put in a new color wheel and bulb. I want to blow compressed air into the innards to clean out the dust. I am afraid that the dust might end up in the wrong place, like on the inside of the screen.
Should I be worried?
I too had the Fan No.3 warning. I found some other posting that said Fan No.3 was the Cable CARD fan. I blew compressed air through the fan grate directly above the cable card, and my TV has not produced the error again.
I have A Samsung model HLR50 78W I bought in Aug. of 2006-great picture. I did not buy the extended warrenty,two weeks after warrenty the lamp went out. Samsung sent me one for $140,through one of their approved repair shops,it cost me $150 plus tax for A five minute job. while repairmen (2) were writing up bill,check fan #1 and fan#2 came on tv screen. I asked what is that and they said they didn’t know,after A minute the light went out,and they left. well I still have the problem,called repair the repair shop and they want to replace 1 fan at approx. $55 plus labor and I said no thanks,took back off of tv and cleaned everthing including fan #3 located on lower right with small plastic cover with slot in it. Removed heatsink fan #2 in lower middle,in plain sight,removed fan#3 behind and to the right of tv lamp. Checked both fans with A 9 volt smoke detector battery,both fans ran good. Went to computer store and bought fans the same size as tv fans,tested these also good,and installed these in tv. Total cost for two fans about $18. Put everthing back together,being sure to reconnect wires. TV works like it did before,watch tv about 2-3 hours and check fan light comes on,shut it down until lights quit flashing,then watch tv again. Thinking about adding fan to back panel where lamp vents are. Hope this helped someone….GOOD LUCK
I have A correction to make,fan#3 is on lower left side under plastic cover with slots,A small fan.
So it is confirmed that standard 80mm and 120mm computer fans will work in Samsung DLPs? Please tell us exactly what fans you used Don
I really don’t want to take the tv apart,I just took the fans from tv,and took them to computer store,and found exact size fans,and they are just standard computer fans that parts houses charge way too much for. Nothing special on Samsungs fans,just 12 volt dc fans that samsung has running at about 6 or 7 volts,no magical internal hocus pocus or anything.
I’m beginning to think,that there is A temperture sensor that turns on the check fan light,possibly the gaget mounted over the top of the bulb housing.
hi me got samsung sp50l6hdxxeu need a fan 2 for it can u help where to get it from please
We have A computer store,that repairs computers,and has many computer parts(new) for sale,you will have to look around.
sorry its a samsung tv sp50l6hdxxeu and it needs a new fan 2
Have 5086 purchased May 06 started a few weeks ago take a long time to turn on ..would get green lights but no picture…now today it wont turn on get a real dim light on the screen but nothing else..then shuts off…my husb took the back off and fan barely runs (is this normal) we werent getting any messages about check fans…called samsung said isnt bulb based on green lights being on…nearest samsung repair location about 40 miles away not to mention its a holiday weekend..any ideas???
Anybody know of an online store that sells the power boards?
All 3 of my fans are going off/on at the same time. If you tap on the power board, all 3 will come back on. So am I thinking the fans are fine.
I cannot remove the fan from a 56″ Samsung DLP HL-P5663W. I have removed the two screws mounting it but it will not come out. It seems to be stuck or perhaps there is a third or fourth screw I can’t see. Any suggestions?
in response to the comment by Max on Mar 22, 2008:
I just replaced the color wheel on my HLN507W1X. It went fine until we put the TV back on it’s stand. The check fans message come on.
we took it down and took off the back. The fans worked.
We put it back. No Fans.
We took the cover off again. the fans worked.
we scratched our heads.
it turns out that the power connector from the board behind the inputs to the board that is vertical with a metal cover on it was shorting out when we shoved the input assembly back in to put the back cover on. this is directly above where the big black power cord exits the back.
we finally got it all to work.
Mike,
Thanks for the advice. Last night after I posted, I took the cover off the back and tapped on the board with the metal cover. My fans haven’t went off since, so it sounds like I am having the same issue as you.
My plan was to just leave the cover off with a fan behind the TV to keep it cool so I don’t miss basketball this weekend, LOL. But I guess later today I will check the wiring and see if I can keep this from happening again.
Have exact same problem as Tim posted Jan 31 2007, after about an hour tv starts to flash static lines and then neg colors and then finally not watchable, after I shut it down for a couple hours works fine for about an hour and hapens again. Tim what did you find out? Does anyone have any suggestions?
Sorry same problem as Dave Sheridan Feb 12 2007
I own a Samsuck HLS5686WX/XAA purchased in 06.
I had the bulb turning off problem (intermittent bulb) 2 months after getting home, I had it under warranty and had two guys come out a replace the bulb. I received the check fan #2 on teh bottom of the screen, I then went to Partstore.com and purchased bulb BP31-00024A, fan g9225l12b2-aw(ws), k220,pbtp. Yes thats reading it directly off the box it came in. I now have the back lower cover off (simply unscrew all the screws that have an arrow pointing to them, the lower plastic cover comes right off, Take out the cover for the bulb, remove screw holding bulb in place and slide bulb assembly out… this is as far as I have gotten but look behind where the bulb was and you can see the Fan #2. Get a small set of screw drivers unplug the connects and slide the whole unit out….this is as far as I have gotten so far!
UPDATE,
After looking at the hole circut board I thought it would be easier to pull all of it out to expose the screws holding the Number #2 in place.
The entire assembly comes out by two screws at teh bottom, Simply slide out the hole kitten kabootle and unscrew replace and plug back in the fan,
reconnect all the plugs you have taken out and re assemble. IT WORKS!!!!
Have a Samsung HLN-5071W1X, looking for the part number for both fans. Repair shop said it would cost me around $350 to have them replace them. Found the #2 part# here, but still need the fan #1 part#. Folks at partstore.com weren’t sure what I was looking for.
Replaced fan following your basic directions. Found that using WD-40 on the screws was necessary to remove the screws holding the fan to the TV and the tiny screws on the back of the fan assembly. If very careful, can remove the foam from around the fan and place it around the new unit.
Have a HLN-567W and so far it is working fine.
(I)Just got back from the in-laws an hour or two ago. While there, their Samsung TV (Model: HLN4365W) began flashing “Check Fan #1″ across the screen and lights were blinking on the front of the TV as well. I’ve been doing some research on the problem and stumbled onto this site. After reading some posts on replacing this fan, I think I’m up to the task. I was wondering if anyone had the part # for Fan #1 and also if the part/fan is available at a local electronic parts or computer supply store (I know it’s available on-line, but getting it locally would be better).
Thanks.
Ernie
Hi, was getting the Check Fan #2 on my 4+ year old 50 inch so I purchased a new one from partstore and replaced it. Everything went smooth until I turned it on and after a few minutes it started flashing Check Fan #2 again. I looked in the back this time and saw that it was spinning along just fine, same as when I first turned it on. So I’m guessing that the fan isn’t pulling enough air or the sensor may be defective or perhaps dirty. Has anyone else seen this problem remain and if so did they discover a permanent fix? The air coming out the vent in back does get warmer as the set runs for a few minutes.
Thanks,
TomH.
HELP! Have a NEW (less than 3 months old) Samsung HL-T6187SA. The Check Fan no. 2 message is coming on and a little red and little yellow light are flashing in the lower right hand corner. We’re having a big TV watching party on Sunday!!! A new Samsung should not do this! Any advice???? Thank you!!!
Have a 5063W DLP that I just replaced the bulb on two weeks ago, worked fine, and then upon powering off today, heard a strange and loud, hum or vibration sound. Not high pitched like the description of the color wheel. Is this the cooling fan? Picture will not come on.
Let set cool down for a while and upon plugging tv into power … the noise starts
follow up to earlier post …
tv turns on now with loud humm / buzzing vibration, picture comes in but with distorted colors?
colorwheel?
Hi, does anyone know if the problem with the black and white freezing could be caused by the fans? After changing the color wheel I have this B&W problem. I am not sure the fans are working… when I turn on the TV without the cover, they seem to be working, but with the cover on I am not sure I can hear them.
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