Jangro.com

Wow, you are a brave man. I would have been tempted to turn up the volume as the noise got louder.

By Don on Jul 26, 2006

This is fantastic timing! I ordered my color wheel the other day and plan to replace it using these instructions tomorrow.

These are going to be very helpful.

Thank you for taking the time to do this for all us who will follow behind you.

Tom

By Tom Barfield on Jul 26, 2006

Very informative post. I just replaced my color wheel yesterday evening and it really is as easy as they say. I followed instructions from avsforum.com and although their info was well put together and detailed you have a lot more pictures and that makes it a lot easier to follow.
A few problems I encountered:

The white/white/blue wire that came off the color wheel that connects to socket CN110 was difficult to remove. I ended up breaking the plug but luckily the socket wasn’t mangled and the replacement wheel came with a new wire.
Also the ribbon cable that came with the new unit was a bit shorter and made it difficult to get the cover in place. It also was hard wired to the new unit so I couldn’t recycle the old bit.

Other than that it was a breeze. My set is a HLN567WX and the process was identical. The new wheel is whisper quiet.

By Tim on Jul 27, 2006

I replaced my wheel yesterday. It was pretty straight forward - the instructions were great.

Two things things that you might want to add to your instructions above:
- An additional wire to pull is the one that goes to a cooling fan on the right side. This was holding the unit from sliding out far enough.
- The color wheel cover was very snug - leading me to believe there was a screw I was missing. After a bit of head scratching I just decided to put a little more force with some wiggling and the cover started to move - clear sailing from there.

Set was quiet as a mouse after that. Oddly though, this morning I got three blinking lights on the front of the set indicating the bulb was out. I pulled the bulb out and put it back in and we are working again. I have over 8000 hrs on the bulb - it is probably time to get a spare.

I noticed that my picture is slightly shifted to the left by about a half inch. I’ll have to get in there and make minor adjustment to shift it to center.

Tom

By Tom Barfield on Jul 29, 2006

This was great and fortuitous timing! I replaced my bulb (blew after 6800 hours) and I thought I would replace color wheel at same time since I have the banshee noise.

I attempted it tonight. I had a challenge with the tight copper wire too (was worried I cut it at one point. Also getting color wheel out was tough as my raised nub was pretty high.

Your photos and instructions were spot on. Many thanks. Noise is gone.

Stephen

By Stephen on Jul 31, 2006

Funny, I just went into Service Menu to reset lamp hours….it said 8001 hours! Wow, that is some quality control.

Stephen

By Stephen on Jul 31, 2006

Fantastic website! I was just checking the forums one more time to see if anyone had detailed instructions before taking the plunge. The tip on pricing and this great set of instructions ROCKS. Wish me luck!

By Chris on Aug 2, 2006

It has been a week since I replaced the color wheel - and that is fine. I am still having troubles with the TV shutting down and giving me the 3 blinking lights indicating the bulb is out. I replaced the bulb and problem still happens though not as frequent.

Either the new bulb is defective or I have another problem brewing. I am wondering if there is a ballast issue.

Any ideas?

By Tom Barfield on Aug 5, 2006

Most excellent instructions. I was an electonics technician for a number of years so I should know. I have a 50 inch Smasung DLP and the insides are the same. The one potential problem you may want to put in your instructions concerns foil tape on the edges of the cover for the color wheel. I saw the tape and peeled it off the cover as best I could. I did not get it all as it went behind where the cover and a component chasis meet. After I played around with it for a while and the cover would not come up, I used a thin knife blade to cut the tape that I could not see. The cover then popped loose. I did not have replacement tape and reassembled without it. the set works fine - I don’t think it is vital - probably a little extra air seal, but it was annoying not knowing what was holding the cover and not having the courage to force it. It made my total time longer. This tape may not be on every 50 inch set but if it is there, it must be dealt with or the cover will not come out. Again =great job and thanks.

john

By John on Aug 9, 2006

Just got my Samsung 61″ DLP 1080P delivered last Friday and it makes the grinding sound described in these posts. To me, it makes the noise that a computer hard drive makes when it is going bad. And the noise is intermitent - not continual.

Can’t believe right out of the box it is defective. Of course I have called Best Buy as it is under warranty and they are sending a tech next week, but should I worry that the set is a LEMON?

Thanks - Rob

By Rob on Aug 13, 2006

Great instructions Scott - used them to successfully replace the color wheel on my model HLN507W (almost 3 yrs old) today which had been experiencing increasingly loud ’scraping’ noise (replaced the lamp too while I was at it).

I was using a 8″ #2 Phillips head screwdriver which happened to have enough ‘grip’ on the screws to lift them straight out of the holes in some of the tighter places without falling off and to replace them likewise. Didn’t need to use any tweezers with this particular screwdriver.

As noted by Tom, there was another wire connected to a cooling fan on the right side that needed to be detached also.

By Steve on Aug 13, 2006

My husband and I are going to do this tonight or tomorrow night. Look like straight forward directions. Will let you know how it goes.

I greatly appreacite your being thoughful enough to post these directions. (O:

~Willow

By Willow on Aug 16, 2006

I followed your steps and got to the point where I take the color wheel out. Copper wire came out easily but when I tried to pull the blue/white wire from the set it didn’t move at all. I tried the smallest screwdriver but no luck. When pulled little hard the wires came out of the white thingy. Looks like the white end of the wires is stuck/melted into the set. How can I take it out so the new one can go in? There is another empty inlet available below the bad one, can I use that? Not sure if the blue/white wire will fit into that. What are my options?
Thanks for your help.

By Mike on Aug 16, 2006

I’ve been trying to get it out but looks like its glued to the socket. I’m afraid if the socket is damaged then I might end up paying for the whole card the socket is attached to. Could be pricy ..:(

By Mike on Aug 16, 2006

Thanks a lot for all the quick replies. I’ll keep trying until I get it out and get it working.

Thanks again.

By Mike on Aug 16, 2006

Many thanks for the directions. They were right on the button… and yes I too had problems getting out the little plug on the socket above the color wheel cover. It broke into pieces and I had to take the pieces out separately!!! got there in the end tho’.
So grateful for the very well documented process.
One thing that you might like to add is a check list for plugs which were unplugged that way when it comes to re-assembly you won’t foget one like I did. Only remembered I hadn’t connected it when I got the temp warning light on the front panel lit up. I just had to pull off the back and access the plug by taking out the lamp. Bit of a pain but everything was ok after this.

By Dave Power on Aug 18, 2006

Scott,

I just replaced the color wheel in my HLN617WX. Sounds great and looks like new. Thanks so much for taking the time to document this procedure. The details and photos where great; really helped to curb the pucker-factor. God bless.

Regards,
Jason

By Jason on Aug 23, 2006

I had the same problem. Missed one cable connection and got the Temp light blinking. So remember all the cables you un-plug.
This article saved me around $200. Thanks you very much Scott.

By Mike on Aug 26, 2006

Hello all,

Thanks for the info. I have a 3 year old HLN617WX and had no problems until recently I had to change the bulb. After changing, the new bulb began to shut down the tv. Calling Samsung, they suggested a defective lamp so I got another one sent only to have the TV continually shutting down. Any ideas? Samsung is worthless and can’t even send me to the correct person to adress this

Thanks

Jake

By Jake on Aug 28, 2006

I was told by a technician that I need a dlp microprocessor
for my hln5065w, does anyone know where I can purchase one
other than from samsung.
Thanks,
Joel

By Joel on Aug 29, 2006

You are the man! I work with computers so I’m comfortable with electronic “guts”, but this definitely made life much easier. If you are ever in upstate NY…..beers on me! Thanks.

By Jon on Aug 29, 2006

Scott,

just wanted to say thanks. website helped a lot. didnt stop me from breaking the blue white wire, but the new color wheel comes with one anyway. so no biggie. big help

tobin

By Tobin on Aug 31, 2006

Ok Ok you guys talked me into to it. Never tackled any thing like this before but will give it a try. I will be ordering a wheel today. Scott thanks for all the info here. I’ll let you know how it goes in a few days when I recieve the wheel. I’m sick of listening to that eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.

Later, Jim

By Jim on Sep 3, 2006

Scott,

Super information. I have an HLN617 and just ran
out of the warranty. Ordered a new lamp and replaced it. Then ordered a new ballast and replaced it…no help at Samsung.. they just pass me around and no one around here to work on them.. After reading your article… sounds familiar. My TV stays on for 3 minutes after being unplug for a day or 2 and looks great. Then, lamp goes out, and it turns off. If I tried to restart it, I get this horrible siren sound. I guess I am down to the color wheel and will try that. Thanks for your information.

Tom in Montana

By Tom Tucker on Sep 3, 2006

Thanks for the help

By Tom on Sep 4, 2006

Scott,

Thanks for the great info. Used your directions and the job went very smooth. White plug was difficult, but a small eyeglass screwdriver did the trick.

Thanks again

Frank

By Frank on Sep 4, 2006

Just wanted to say thanks! These instructions were perfect. I was able to change my color wheel in about 1.5 hours. Would not have been able to do it without these. My wife says she can’t tell if the TV is on or not now since it no longer sounds like a .

Thanks again.

By Ken on Sep 6, 2006

I’ve never tried anything like this, but was successful. great instructions and pictures. I also had to remove the wire to the fan on the right. (5065W) rest was smooth sailing…thanks again…mike

By mike on Sep 6, 2006

wow, this is very good info……..since my Samsung started this noise too and I was wondering what the heck this is. Plus all those pictures and step by step on how to too……..Thanks guys

By Ben on Sep 7, 2006

Scott,

Thank you so much for helping me save about $500! Your step by step explanation gave me the confidence to replace the color wheel on my DLP TV. We have the exact same Samsung model as yours and have been loving the picture as well since 2003.

One thing I noticed was a mislabeled photo below Step 3. You have the arrows pointing to empty screw holes that are used for the back cover. The two screws that should be removed at that point are along the bottom of that panel.

Again, thanks so much for showing that a few tools, coupled with the ability to follow directions can help us replace our buzzsaw with a color wheel. By the way, is it just us, or are the colors more vibrant after the switch?!?

Best regards,

-Daniel (82 minutes!)
Only 3586 hours on lamp in 3 years.

P.S. - I didn’t notice any additional wires to remove as a couple of people mentioned.

By Daniel on Sep 7, 2006

The instructions are great. I have already saved them for future references but I wonder if the color wheel can be simply fixed sometimes.
If it is making a grinding noise couldn’t it be re-aligned or cleaned somehow? It is sort of a disk rotating on an axis, isn’t it?
Has anyone heard of fixing the color wheel at home? Has anyone attempted this?
Regards

Ernesto

By Ernesto on Sep 8, 2006

Still waiting for my order from PartStore.com. Was sent Fedex, Fedex transfered to USPS?

I was wondering though if anyone has heard about this. I was searching ebay and was reading about a DLP lamp. The guy was saying when you replace your lamp you should reset your lamp hours and clean the fans. If this is’nt done you ruin your new lamp right away. Has anyone here heard of such a thing?

Later, Jim

By Jim on Sep 9, 2006

Well it came today and I installed it. Just like you said Scott about a hour and a half. I also had to remove one more wire to make the pull out. I also removed my fan. Sounds just like new, no noise just that fan lol.

I agree with you on that replacing the lamp. Restricted air flow yes. Resetting hours would be of no use.

Scott THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU. I would have never attempted this without your instructions. You my friend are a fine man.

Later, Jim

By Jim on Sep 9, 2006

Anyone,

My TV recently started to make this fan noise and sometimes it has a hard time turning on — the standby temp light stays on after I turn it off. The picture still looks great, but that noise is driving my wife NUTS!

Based on this info — what is your assessment? I’m more than willing to do this thing myself, but need to ensure I’m doing the right things. I have the Samsung Model: HLP5063WX/XAA and it’s 2 years old.

Thanks in advance!

Adam

By Adam on Sep 11, 2006

Scott — thanks for the quick reply. When I turn the TV off — the sound stops immediately. It is only when it is turned on that it makes the noise.

Also, what is the difference between the color wheel, the lamp, and the cooling fan? I think I may need to replace the cooling fan, but need some expert advice.

Thanks again!

Adam

By Adam on Sep 11, 2006

Adam your cooling fan for the the lamp runs on a timer. Most sets the timer is set to run two or three minutes after turning the set off.

Later, Jim

By Jim on Sep 11, 2006

I have a Samsung DLP HL-P5063W TV and called the Best Buy technician out to fix the color wheel (making the same noise described above).

The technician came out, put the new color wheel in and thought it was defective as the color was off on the TV. The technician played with some (factory I believe) color settings and couldn’t seem to fix it. He replaced the old color wheel. The issue is that when he replaced the old color wheel the issue with the color was still there (and had not been present before he started).

My HD television channels have perfect color but my non-HD channels are tinted in such a way that skin tone is a purple-ish color.

I had them out a month later and they replaced the entire color wheel (chassis?) and the color problem has now persisted and I am at this moment in a battle with Best Buy to either replace the TV or find a technician that can fix my problem.

In a nutshell I am convinced now that the original tech somehow messed up color settings I can not get to (or don’t know how). The color problem was not there before the initial visit and the subsequent technicians only seem to know how to take parts out and put a new part in (none of which have fixed it). I have tried playing with all the color settings the manual speaks of and have not fixed the issue.

Has anyone seen or heard anything like this and does anyone have a potential fix for it? Are there color settings that are not in the Manual that the original tech could have screwed with? And why is it just the normal channels and not effecting the HD channels? I am completely stumped.

By Brad on Sep 12, 2006

I have the Samsung DLP HL-P5063W also. My “buzzsaw” sound starts when we turn on, but sometimes doesn’t make any noise at all. When it does, it lasts for hours; when we turn off, picture goes black, and the sound continues for 3-4 seconds and gradually fades away (loud to low to no sound…like a table saw shutting down). So I am concerned that it may not be the color wheel as some have described. What do you think?…and by the way, thank you for the great instruction page.

By Dave on Sep 12, 2006

Add me to the list of greatful color wheel instruction users. Changed the wheel today and the set is back in the sweet spot! Great job and service for those of us ‘geeky’ enough to attempt replacing the color wheel ourselves.

By Michael Plack on Sep 13, 2006

OK. Thanks again. I’m going to get “geeky” and dive into to my TV. Until later.

By Dave on Sep 13, 2006

Have a HLN507WX. A few months ago had the loud buzzsaw/”bicycle wheel spoke obstacle” noise. Had sound and picture. Later the noise went away and was replaced by an initial “whinning” sound that dies out in a few seconds. After a few seconds it “whines” again. All this while in standby and NO picture, but sound is OK. After a couple of attempts the 3LED blinks and then the set turns off. I am suspecting the color wheel, but a service man suggested the lamp. So I replaced the lamp with no luck.

Details/summary:

The following original parts in the TV:

Ballast: BP4700008A (100P/H00,100W) Phillips
Lamp: BP9600224C Phillips
Color wheel: (probably) BP9600250A

Actions taken:

Replaced lamp with: BP9600224J 120W Phillips - DID NOT WORK
my concern here is if I also need to replace the ballast to support the 120W Lamp or is this a non-issue and should I go directly to replacing the color wheel?

Any other thoughts?

Thanks in advance. I see a lot of satisfied posters, so congratulations on this very helpful site.

By Steve on Sep 13, 2006

Scott,

I wrote on September 3rd about the loud noice. Replaced the color wheel following your instructions… and it’s beautiful. The first time after the replacement I turned it on.. I got a little squeal when it started up … then it got quiet.. and everything is beautiful.

Thanks for the instructions.. Samsung should put them on their web site.

Tom

By Tom on Sep 13, 2006

Reply to Steve.. sounds like my machine and replacing the color wheel (after I replaced the lamp and the ballast).. did the trick.

Tom

By Tom on Sep 13, 2006

Good to know. My Crapsung DLP (hl-p5063w) has had issues since new. Returned the first two to CircuitCity so now I’m on my third. I should have just gotten a refund after the second one but I didn’t use my head! My third set (now out of warranty of course) acts up all the time. I get the three leds occasionally, vertical lines on startup (before I select a input), humming and strange noises and sometimes it will not power on at all. If I power down that solves the problem but it is annoying. I’ve been tempted to purchase a similar model numerous times with the same bulb and swap it out then return the new one and get a refund. The little man on my left shoulder with the pitchfork and horns says “do it” the little guy in the white robe with the halo on my right says “don’t do it”. So far I’ve listened to the guy on my right. If I was sure that the TV I took the bulb from would get shipped back to Crapsung from the vendor I would do it in a heartbeat with no regrets. I’m just afraid that the vendor or some poor slob would get stuck with it. Anyway it’s good to know that there are people out there that have the stones to take these things apart and fix them themselves.

By mike on Sep 15, 2006

Just a side thought. After looking at the photos about changing the light wheel. Do you think it would be prudent to attempt cleaning the color disk occasionally, perhaps with a low p.s.i. of compressed air. I would think that over time there would be a buildup of dust on the wheel and bulb that would affect performance. I think I recall someone telling me that they needed to get the lenses of their guns cleaned on their projection T.V. I guess a buildup of dirt and dust would affect performance. What do you thnk!

By mike on Sep 15, 2006

I tried to change my color wheel. The white/white/blue wire pulled out and the plug stayed in. I tried to get it out, but it just broke up into pieces. Some of it is still in and I can not get it out. What should I do?
Thanks!

By Chad on Sep 17, 2006

Chad,
That white/white/blue wire has frayed a lot of nerves. We encountered the same problem… but a lot of patience and a pair of needle nose pliers did the job. As others have siad, just be careful not to damage the socket.

Scott,
Your instructions were so good that even we were able to handle the job in under 2 hours… with a minimum of panic. We found the instructions by accident when we called a repairman to come to the house… and he quoted a price of about $1750… $1000 just for the part. Once we kicked him out (the only “authorized” Samsung repair service to serve Manhattan) we decided to check online for other people who may have had the same problem (before we tossed out the TV). Found your instructions… ordered the part from The Parts Store, and a few days later, had a quiet and crisp picture once again. (had to pay the repair service about $110 just to show up, but it was worth it to find out what the part was that needed replacement).
Thanks for the idea… the instructions… and the support of everyone else who has written! There is NO WAY we would have tackled the job without this!

By Alan on Sep 19, 2006

Tom,

Right on! Replaced the color wheel of my HLN507WX and the set worked. Did not have to use the newer lamp (will use as a spare) and so the ballast was not an issue either. Thanks for reassuring me.

Scott,

Thanks for the great site. Following your instructions and in about 1 1/2 hours, success is sweet.

Good luck to all readers.

By Steve on Sep 19, 2006

like others here, I took the plunge as well. took me just under 2 hours to replace the CW assy on my 3 year old HLN5065W DLP.

the hardest part for me was installing the new CW assy without binding it or scratching the wheel. spent at least 20 minutes trying various angles, etc before it finally slid in place. at one point I was convinced the new wheel housing was just too big to fit! lack of patience would have surely done me in!

the white/white/blue wire was a little tough as many others have mentioned. I was able to get it out pretty much “intact” by observing the connector on the new wheel assy and noting where the two “nubs” were that sort of hold the male half in the socket. the nubs are on the inside portion of the connector (the side facing the innards of the tv). by sliding an xacto knife in between the male and female halves of the connector (thus putting a slight gap between the male and female halves) then twisting the knife as I pulled towards me, I was able to get the connector off.

put everything back together, plugged the tv in and “shazaam” — worked great!

thanks to Scott and all others who posted their experiences. couldn’t (wouldn’t) have done it without your inputs.

By will on Sep 21, 2006

Scott … nice information. Gave me the courage to open up my 43″ Samsung DLP as well. It’s worked fine until yesterday morning when I saw a flashing red “check the fan no. 2″ on my screen. Opened up the back of the unit & taped the power switch in the up position. Turned the unit on & noticed that the large fan that sits vertically at the lower right of the unit was twitching … trying to spin, but no luck. I could blow on it & it would easily spin. I ordered a replacement part BP31-00001A … lamp fan assembly. Any tips on how to easily remove the old one? Is it a simple matter of removing the 2 screws on the left of the black plastic/foam lined duct housing that’s right in front of it? Let me know your thoughts. Thanks gain for the pictures & information as I originally called Samsung & it looks like something that I could repair myself.

By Mike on Sep 22, 2006

I am in process of completing the color wheel replacement, I have replaced color wheel and attached appropriate wires but now I have temp and lamp light blinking. The manual says “lamp cover is not on”, I have put the lamp cover on with no results. DLP will still not start.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

By qb1knob on Sep 23, 2006

I have re-attached the switch and completely re-assembled back and side cover. For some reason the switch was not going down when I put back on the cover. It is now working and I am up and running. This was part of my color wheel replacement project and my “banshee screaching” is gone.

Thanks for taking the time to put this information up, I now have new DLP TV!!

By qb1knob on Sep 24, 2006

Just wanted to say thanks,
Me and the old man put in the color wheel in about an hour and a half, just in time for the 1:00 o’clock games on sunday. Wouldnt have been able to do without your directions

Thanks again

Mike

By MIKE L. on Sep 24, 2006

What a great site and very diligent details. Hope I can get some feed back on my issue and questions. I have a HLN507W1X with start up problems that I assume are related to the lamp. Green lamp light blinks, sound comes on, then set automatically shuts down and then attemps to re-start a couple more times, then shuts down with three steady lights (timer, lamp, temp) New lamp installed 4 mo ago by CC Tech. When I remove the existing lamp assembly and re-install it, the set will usually start up and work fine. Then, the next time we try to turn it on, the same problem. I have ordered a new lamp assembly (for back-up if this is not the issue) but where is the ballast that a few have talked about? Is it separate from the lamp assembly and easily replacable? I am hoping the new lamp solves the start up issue but want to have a back-up plan if it could be some other component. Fortunately, no noisy fans or color wheel yet and clean inside.
Any ideas?
Thanks to all.

By Mike F. on Sep 25, 2006

Thanks for the awesome instructions. But now my tv won’t even turn on. I’ve officially taken apart and put back together this television 37 times. I followed the directions, everything is in it’s right place and nothing. Could I be missing something? Please help!!!!

By Jake on Sep 26, 2006

replaced my color wheel yesterday,great info , but when i reassembled my tv the lamp would not fire
i also replaced lamp with new one (over 9600hrs on it)still would not fire.
through some more research i have narrowed this down to either the ballast or ddi? board(not sure if that is correct)
does any one know what the output voltage on the ballast should be?
this is a samsung hln 5065wx/xxa

By GREG on Oct 1, 2006

Hello Brad,

I had a tech in to change my color wheel TV only 9 months old was making the buzzing sound. I am experiencing the same problem as you HD channels are fine but when I use RCA or S-Video connections the Greens and the blue colors are completely off.
I have the tech coming in to fix this problem not sure what will happen will post results. Have you managed to try and get a refund or the problem fixed?

CD

By CD on Oct 1, 2006

I have a question, my color on my dlp tv is kind of green and tinted on some station, I try to fix the problem with my color control, I want to know if i needed to replace my color wheel.

And I notice when i check the part that i needed for my dlp tv from Partstroe.com, the color wideth was not the same as my color wheel in side of my dp tv, is this a problem, or this is the new part for my dlp tv (HLN617WX).

Thanks

Bryant

By Bryant on Oct 2, 2006

Hi Guys,

Well the tech that the color wheel om my receiver showed up to check the color issue I am having and would not or could not tell the difference between the HD and SD green color the SD green is horrible a lime dirty green.
Anyways he has taken it into the shop to have looked at closer guees this guy only fits parts and has no clue what he may have screwed up.
Will pass information on once I get my TV back.

CD

By CD on Oct 4, 2006

Just wanted to say thanks for all of the information and saving me $$$. My ears would also like to thank you has they have stopped buzzing.

Ohh… now I can watch televsion and not pretend that I am in a tool shed.

By Ben on Oct 5, 2006

A couple of more tips:

1. Use a magnetic tipped screwdriver - very handy on that buried color wheel screw.
2. Use a razor blade to peel off the foil tape. I was able to reuse the foil tap after reinstalling the color wheel cover.

No more screaming banshee. Thank you for posting this most useful information.

By Garrett on Oct 5, 2006

Thank you, thank you, thank you. Would not have even thought about doing this myself but my discontent with others abilities regarding fixing my stuff in a timely manner drove me onward to try this. Just like pictured on most all counts of the fix. Took me a bit longer but most of that was labeling cables taken off the rear of the set and walking back and forth to the computer for each step I completed. Great instuctions all the way. I remagnatized my phillips screwdriver to make the vertical screws much easier to drop into their holes. I feel like fixing another while my luck is hot!

By Mike on Oct 5, 2006

DOH!! I screwed it up. After trying for two hours to get the 2 white/1 blue connector off, the wires came out. By then, the connector was half broken. I’ve been digging at it now for 4 hours and getting nowhere fast. I can’t tell how many pins are in there and how they are aligned.

My 61″ Samsung is about 3 years old. I think I’m going to call it a day and buy a new one with HDMI and 1080P.

By Jason on Oct 7, 2006

Thank you,Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!

Replaced the color wheel on my 4 year old HLM507WX today. Although it took me the better part of 3 hours I am sitting pretty with an almost completely silent TV. There were some minor variations from the instructions, for example in step 6, there was no “blue/brown two-wire power cable”.
I didn’t let this bother me. I simply unplugged those cables that restricted my movement.
The only mishap that I had was tearing the foam sheath, extending the slit, when returning the projector lens inside of it. It didn’t affect the picture.
If anyone has questions or wants pictures feel free to ask, I will be happy to upload images. Thanks. Joel

By JoelWine on Oct 7, 2006

Your instructions were great. It took us 2 hours (minus a couple of breaks along the way).

My friends have a 50″ that’s about 3 years old. After paying $90 to the BestBuy tech who said they needed a new light motor (?) and that was going to be $400 for the part labor, they went hunting for a new TV. Not wanting to fork over that kind of money so quickly, they decided to call a couple of repair places. After speaking to one guy, he told them they needed the color wheel which he could order and then install (and his labor charge would only be $200- ha!) My friends called me since I’ve built and repaired many a computer and asked me what I thought. I told her to go online and order the part (before seeing your message so I think she actually ordered it direct but still it was only $160 for the part to be overnighted). I told her we definitly should try installing it before they decided to fork over another couple of hundred bucks for someone else to do it.

I found your instructions online and sat my laptop next to the TV and just followed the steps. Of course I got a little excited and pulled a couple of plugs I didn’t need to and took out a couple of extra screws along the way

We too had to unplug the power to the fan and ran into the problem with the short ribbon connector from the new color wheel. At first I thought I’d caught it on something when putting the cover back on but I hadn’t. I also didn’t think it was plugged in completely (some of the white on the end was still showing) but I couldn’t put it in any further and the TV works great so maybe it was supposed to be like that.

Anyway, thanks again for doing this- it is definitly appreciated. Boy, if everyone realized they could do this on their own, just think of how many repair men would be out of jobs!

By Angel on Oct 7, 2006

Scott, you rock! I just got through replacing the whistling color wheel on my 2.5 year old HLN567W. I would’ve never had the guts to try it if I hadn’t found this. Your directions and pictures were awesome. There were some minor differences which are surely due variations in different models, but nothing too intimidating. I even got the white/white/blue wire connector off cleanly in about 20 sec. using will’s xacto-knife method.

My wife was impressed when it came on with the first try, and quiet as a mouse. I’m sure she thought I’d break the thing and we’d have to spend thousands for a new set just because I tried to save a few hundred. O she of little faith.

By Paul on Oct 9, 2006

Paul
My wife thought the same LOL!!!!

By Jim on Oct 9, 2006

Scott..MANY MANY thanks! Your instructions were excellent! You were right about step 7. Even though I was careful, the wires popped out! ARGH!! Spent the next hour with a magnifying glass and a jewelers screwdriver carving out the plastic knob still stuck in there! Happy to say I was able to complete the task. ULTRA QUIET!! Thanks again!

By Michael B on Oct 11, 2006

One more thing to add…when I removed the right panel in step 3, I may have moved it out too much because a thin white/blue wire popped out of the board toward the front of the TV. (This wire can be seen in the picture above step 4. it’s the one stretching from the front panel and is seated just behind the solid white wire with the grey tube on it.) I noticed this upon final inspection before putting all the guts back in. Make sure you double check every wire!

By Michael B on Oct 12, 2006

I’m amazed at how easy this was!

I’m about the least handy person around, but I decided to give this a try. The directions were incredibly easy to follow. I had some trouble getting the blue/white color wheel cable removed (the wires popped out) but it wasn’t anything that a pair of tweezers couldn’t fix.

Thanks to everyone who wrote in about the fan wires…I needed to remove the fan.

I also inadvertantly yanked the blue/white wire that Michael B described above…and put the set together 3 times before I found it….but once I got it re-connected I had a beautiful picture and no screeching!

Thanks a lot for posting this Scott!

By Doug on Oct 12, 2006

Hi, I have a Samsung HLN617WX that has diagonal lines running through the whole picture 1/2″ apart on every input I try. Do you know if this a color wheel symptom also?

Jeff

By Jeff Ostroff on Oct 12, 2006

Thanks for pulling this together for all of us! My HL-R5667W is making a buzzing sound (really a strong vibration) after something popped while watching TV. Now the color is funky and the buzzing only goes away when I shut the unit off. It seems like it is a fan, but based on what I have read here, it sounds more like my color wheel. However, I’m going to pull the unit out of my TV nook this weekend and examine it first. The buzzing goes away after about 20 seconds from the picture going black when I shut it off. What is an easiest way to detect the issue (fan vs. color wheel) without opening the unit back? Or, will the power still go on when I remove the back cover? I called Circuit City for repair and they are telling me that it could be weeks to get it repaired (if color wheel, the part needs to be removed and sent for analysis before a new part will be sent???). I’m thinking about just ordering the part and fixing it myself and having CC reimburse me.

By Scott D on Oct 13, 2006

Thanks to all for your help and comments. I have had my 50″ Samsung DLP for about 5 years. I have replaced the lamp once. The color wheel needed replacing so I ordered one from Samsung. Everything went well until the infamous blue and white wires on the color wheel. I worked with tweezers and very small screwdrivers but just managed to mess it up. I am lucky I live in Los Angeles and I took the “engine” to Paul’s TV Repair (One of the local authorized Samsung repair places) in Chatsworth Ca. (San Fernando Valley). They repaired the connection for $90.00 (They said I was lucky, that I could have messed it up much worse and the repair could have cost up to $900.00 if the panel had needed to be replaced). I reinstalled the engine and all of the connections and the TV is working very well. If you have doubts about the blue and white wires, I might suggest removing the engine and taking it to a good repairperson. For a few bucks you may avoid a headache.

By Bssnist John on Oct 13, 2006

Scott, thanks so much for the reply. In addition to the information that you provided here, I also downloaded (for a small fee) the Service Manual for my model (HL-R5667W) since it is assembled differently than your model. Following the simple step-by-step in the SM and your tips above, I was able to successfully remove my lamp assembly and check the color wheel. Sure enough, the c/w had a “piece of the pie” blown out and there was “fairy” dust in the casing. It has all been removed and now I’m ready to get the new one a drop it in. Your tip tip about the blue/white cable for the color wheel was spot on. I took my time and used a small screwdriver to ease it out. It came out in one piece, but I can see how others had trouble. Thanks again for all the info! I’ll let you know how it goes when the new one arrives!

By Scott D on Oct 14, 2006

Get site! Used it to replace my color wheel and everything went great. Your directions were spot on. Put everything back together and the tv started right up.

A few days later the tv wouldn’t start and I was getting the 3 blinking lights. I think it’s my lamp but I’m curious about the wheel. If the lamp is bad will the lamp still start spinning? If the lamp doesn’t spin for whatever reason could that cause the the tv not to start and flash the 3 blinking lights? The wheel still has a high pitched whine to it but it’s way quieter than it was before, should there be any noise from it?

By Teeman on Oct 19, 2006

Thanks Scott for the super effort in detailing this otherwise nail-biting task. When I first had the problem with my HLN4365W, I came across this as well as many other sites describing these “whining” colour wheels. I initially rejected the colour wheel as my potential problem, because the sound I got was like a jackhammer being used directly on your skull. And it didn’t start slowly, more quietly… it happened all at once.

So, I really suspected a fan as the source, but after opening up the back and watching the fan(s) run absolutely silently after the power to the screen was turned off, I reconsidered. Using your instructions, I pulled the colour wheel and this is what I found:

http://emailthis.ca/colourwheel/ColorWheel1.jpg
http://emailthis.ca/colourwheel/ColorWheel2.jpg

For those that can’t link or can’t figure out what they’re seeing… my colour wheel is completely shredded! Two of the segments are missing and two others have the edges chewed right off. And everwhere in the vicinity, inside the case, are the fragments of those plastic segments - some as small as dust.

I can’t imagine what could have caused this, but it must be similar to what happens when a bird flies into a jet engine. Perhaps the bearings gave out and the wheel tilted enough to actually touch the mounting and blew apart? None of those who responded previously mentioned anything similar, but I’d love to hear about it if my case isn’t as unique as it seems to be.

Whatever caused it, at least I can simply order a new one now and plug it in. I’ll keep you posted as to my success in putting back what I took out so easily. Amazingly, I didn’t have any trouble at all with that miserable blue/white wire plug - I have a little tool that came in a computer tool-kit that looks like tweezers with the ends turned in toward each other - it fits just under the edges of the plug and a slow steady pull lifts it right out. I’m surprised no one else seems to have had such a tool - it’s made for just that sort of task - plugs and socketed IC removal. I’m sure one of these things can be picked up for about a buck at your local RadioShack.

By Eric on Oct 21, 2006

Tom B.,

I replaced my color wheel and the process went smoothly…no issues that I recognized along the way. The directions were spot on for my 56″. Then I said a prayer as Scott suggests, turned the unit on and got the same thing you were experiencing: Flashing green light, an attempt to restart with a flashing green light, another attempt to restart with a flashing green light followed by all three lights flashing. Then then tv shuts off.

Please tell me you found an answer to this problem. Anyone else have any suggestions? The user manual suggests that this is a lamp problem. I would find it hard to believe since it wasn’t happening before I attempted to replace the color wheel.

Thanks to everyone,

Jeff

By Jeff on Oct 21, 2006

Scott,
I just replaced my color wheelon my HLN507W using your instructions.
All went flawlessly. It’s been 2 weeks now with no issues. I never knew this TV could be so quiet!
You did a great job with the info.

Comments - You are right about that small white connector. Takes some patience to get it off. Also quite tricky manuevering the new wheel assembly into place without bumping the wheel. I also had a small cooling fan on the right side that I had to remove, but no real problems.

Thanks!!!!!

By Ken on Oct 21, 2006

Scott!

1 hour and 45 min from pulling the TV out to the prayer and the switch! I can’t believe it! No noise at all!

That blue/ white/ white wire was a @#%&*^!er! I lost all the wires, but prying it from the screen side got it out no prob. I dropped in a new lamp and kept the old as a spare. No more Banshee Scream!

I got this little tool that works like a syringe that has 3 little wires (with hooked ends) to help with screws etc. That thing was a life saver for getting screws out and then back in. Better than my tweezers.

Thanks so much!!!

Rob (Washington, DC)

3 year old HLN5065WX/XAA (A GREAT TV!)

By ROCKER on Oct 25, 2006

WOW! This is what the web is all about. I’m watching my Samsung HLN617W yesterday and it starts making the buzzsaw sound.

Thinking it was the fan, I went on the web and in two minutes found this page and realized the color wheel was the culprit. I read the whole thread, and ordered both the wheel and fan, since I was going to be in there anyway.

Parts showed up this afternoon, and about three hours later, my TV is back to being quiet. Most of the time was spent on that damn white/blue color wheel wire. Yep, I broke the wires off, and had to remove the whole color wheel/lamp housing to get at it properly to get the remaining pieces out of the socket with a VERY small part of needle nose pliers and a jewelers screwdriver.

Thank you very much for posting this….HENCH

By Hench on Oct 25, 2006

Hats off to your sir! Well done! The blue/white/white connector connecting the color wheel to the engine was even worse than you described. I ended up picking it out in pieces with a large bent needle and readjusting the pin spacing as they were roughed up during the excavation process. Otherwise, things went smooth as could be thanks to the outstanding instructions and comments from other brave souls.
One thing that may contribute to the plug referenced above being so difficult to remove is that, from the looks of mine, the wire gets very hot due to the additional frictional load in the motor which accounts for the noise. Next time I think I’ll clip off the wires and splice them to avoid the chance of finishing off the connector base on the engine.
Thanks again,
Haynes

By Haynes on Oct 26, 2006

Jeff and Tom B,
I may have some good news for you. I experienced the same prolem…color wheel fixed, about a week later the dreaded 3BL. Tried new lamp…still did not work. It had to be the color wheel! I did notice a slight noise from the wheel where it was originally quiet after I fixed it. I opened it up again and found that I did not tighten the color wheel screws down enough…I guess I was too careful the first time not to over tighten. Closed everything up. Turned it on and lo and behold we’re back! The noise is gone as well.
Good luck to you!

By Michael B on Oct 26, 2006

JEFF

Make sure your cables for the color wheel are seated all the way in to the dmd board
i had same problem and it was due to the blue and white cable not pushed in far enough

hope this helps

By GREG on Oct 26, 2006

OK - here is an issue that I have not seen addressed here. I am so happy to learn that I can quiet the screaming noise, and have already ordered my new color wheel.

But also, it seems to me that the brightness of my screen is much lower than it used to be. I’ve checked the settings, but all is well. Could the color wheel affect the brightness? Does the lamp “fade” or just die when it ages? I have 8927 hours on mine.

Thanks

By jshoemaker1 on Oct 26, 2006

Awesome instructions. Replaced color wheel last night and tv powered up fine. The only thing I noticed is my picture is slightly shifted to the left by about a half inch leaving a black column on the left side of the picture. I entered the Service menu and tried to tweak it using the Pos-X setting but could not get rid of it totally. Any suggestions??? Thanks.

By Scott on Oct 27, 2006

Correction to earlier post:

Awesome instructions. Replaced color wheel last night and tv powered up fine. The only thing I noticed is my picture is slightly shifted to the left by about a half inch leaving a black column on the right side of the picture. I entered the Service menu and tried to tweak it using the Pos-X setting but could not get rid of it totally. Any suggestions??? Thanks.

By Scott on Oct 27, 2006

Great instructions. If you use a magnetic screwdriver it saves a lot of trouble you don’t need the tweezers.

Thanks.

By Dave on Oct 27, 2006

Wow! Very, very cool! Thank you so much. Got rid of that pain in the ‘mind’ sound that wound up giving me a headache and didn’t even know it. Was easy and so helpful. I did have to ‘break’ the wheel blue/white connector and also pulled out the connector on the power supply. But all did get put back together.

Thank you sooooo much!

By Bob on Oct 28, 2006

Thanks so much for your site, and especially this article and thread. I’m hoping I can get a little more help on this task.

Unfortunately, despite both a chip puller and a small jeweler’s screwdriver, the wires pulled out as the white connector began to crumble as soon as I touched it. Needless to say, the remaining pieces are much more solid, and have not broken apart (I can just see a tiny bit of one or two of the pins). It almost seems fused, as described by another poster, although only on one side and maybe the bottom. It is definitely has not broken into further pieces at this point.

I called around, and there is no authorized repair shop nearby, and I have been unable to find someplace to bring in the entire engine so they can remove (and repair?) the part, so that is not really an option right now.

I do not believe I have damaged anything other than the connector end at this point, but I’d like to get some feedback before I continue to try and dig out the remaining pieces.

My questions are as follows:

How durable is the plastic portion of the socket? I was wondering if the connector end is crumbling, is it likely the plastic portion of the socket may be soft as well?

Can I apply heat to try and expand the socket slightly?

If I continue to try and break apart/dig out the remaining connector part what damage am I risking? Worst case (I’d guess) is damage to the circuit board itself (not the pins), but this doesn’t appear highly likely. I can damage the pins sufficiently so they don’t operate properly. It seems though the most likely damage would be to the plastic socket, no? The purpose of that plastic is to hold the connector firmly in place, right? If this were to be damaged, could I seat the new connector and then apply a dot of hot glue to hold it?

Any other suggestions/feedback?

I know this is a little long, but I’m trying to be cautious here. Thanks so much!

By Laurie on Oct 30, 2006

Thanks for the information!

I am going to order the CW and install it.
I have a Samsung HLN437WX and it is a whiner.
I’ll let you know how it goes.

If anyone has detailed photos of the problematic ble-white connector I would appreciate forwarding them along.

- Jay

By JayMag on Oct 31, 2006

Further comments,
The plug of the blue and white wires has three prongs but there are only two wires. In trying to get the damaged plug out by using needle springs to chip it out I damaged one of the pins. The repair shop just rewired to the alternate pin. The picture is noticeably brighter with the new wheel. When I first reattached the back the TV did not turn on. I removed the back, tripped the switch on the lower right, and turned on the TV again. This time it went on, I reattached the back a little more carefully this time and it worked.

By bssnist John on Oct 31, 2006

Great guide, thanks for making it.
Partsstore.com doesn’t seem to ship to Canada, so here is a link to an electronics vendor who supplies the color wheel and everything else to Canada. I got the information from Samsung.

http://www.globalsemi.com

The color wheel cost me $180 dollars (Canadaian), plus tax and shipping.

By Michael on Nov 2, 2006

Well, my color wheel is in (mainly by the grace of God, because I really butchered the connector end and to a lesser extent the plastic portion of the socket), so I owe all of you a HUGE thank you. I actually used a tool designed for working with ceramics (before firing). One end is similar to an exacto blade but is sturdier and the other end has a curved, pointed tool, which worked well dealing with the necessary angles to get in to the upper socket area.

Unfortunately, I am not quite done, as I think I messed something up as my remotes do not work. My guess is I left off a cable somewhere as I cannot imagine what else it could be.

Funny thing is as I was reattaching everything I was thinking I should post how in addition to photos I wished I had at least listed the number of cables I removed (I removed a few more than listed, but I have a 567 which is a little different than the pics, and I was really paranoid about damaging a cable by stretching it too far). It probably would not have been a problem had I not run into the broken connector so then stopped for a couple of days as I ran out of time (3 yr old grandson in the home affects things…).

I’m going to review my digital pics one more time to see if I can figure out what I might have missed, but any feedback here would be well appreciated!

Thanks so much again -

Laurie

By Laurie on Nov 2, 2006

I have a HL-P4663W and I’m confused about which color wheel to buy. Both of these are supposed to work with my DLP:

BP96-00674A
BP96-00250A

There’s a good $60 price difference, but does anyone know whether they are interchangeable?

By Tom on Nov 2, 2006

Michael wrote:
> Partsstore.com doesn’t seem to ship to Canada, so…
> The color wheel cost me $180 dollars (Canadaian), plus
> tax and shipping.

Well, I still went with partstore.com, but had them ship to a cousin in Michigan who then forwarded it to me. The only critical stipulation I gave him, was to ship USPS ground… and under no circumstances use UPS.

Guess what? Little man in brown shows up at my door asking for $60 in brokerage fees - I told him to take a hike and return to sender. UPS is avoided like the plague for cross-border shipping because of their usurious brokerage fees. The post office ships straight to your mailbox, with a little slip requesting the 6% GST and sometimes a couple of bucks handling fee. What should have been a $10 charge, UPS turned into $60.

You can imagine how pleased I was with my dear cousin! To make this short(er), when UPS called this morning to confirm my rejection of the package and I realized they were going to now try and collect this from my cousin when they returned it - I bit my tongue really hard and told them to send it back to me. So in the end, I’ll end up paying almost $225 Canadian ($140 CDN from partstore to MI, $25 CDN from MI to me, and $60 CDN brokerage)

Bottom line I should have gone with: http://www.globalsemi.com as you did and saved myself (and my cousin) the hassle and $45 in the process I’m going to have UPS put me on their “no-ship” list, to avoid this ever happening in the future.

Worst of all, I had that little wheel in my hand yesterday morning and now it probably won’t get back here until Monday… I’m really itching to have that DLP re-assembled and working again.

By Eric on Nov 2, 2006

Suprisingly the part came today. Re-assembled everything without incident, except for the do-it-yourselfer’s worst nightmare - 1 screw left over. It was one of those brass ones with the compression washer, none of which had to be removed as part of this exercise. So, my best guess is, I took it out of the base somewhere near the wheel cover originally thinking it was one of the cover screws. However, try as I might I could find no empty holes for it to go back into.

Didn’t affect the final outcome any, as this lovely and perfectly quiet DLP is back in business.

Thanks again Scott! I bet the accumulated savings in repair costs of just those who have posted their experiences here could buy a dozen new machines. Now if you only had a nickle for every…

By Eric on Nov 3, 2006

You Rock! My husband and I attempted this — and it worked. Only one mishap. We forgot to plug in the wire on the green circuit board on top of the color wheel cover. Opened it back up, 10 mins later…watching our super sweet TV with no super squeal! Saved $400 in repair man fees. That will buy a lot of cold beverages to enjoy while we zone.

Thanks for posting and caring about us un-techies!

By Jennifer and Rich on Nov 4, 2006

Scott - Thanks for taking the time to post this information. It made my colorwheel replacement a breeze. I am not sure I would have had the courage to try it without your website.

By Tony on Nov 8, 2006

Scott,

I just finished replacing the color wheel in my HLN617wx. Your instructions were very helpful. THANKS.

This is actually the 2nd time my color wheel has failed. The 1st time it was replaced was a little over a year (the TV was just out of its 1 yr warranty) ago after the service guy had nothing left but it to replace. It seemed to be spinning ok, and not making any noise (other than initial startup), but the symptom was the lamp would not fire. After replacing lamp (2 times), ballast (2 times), and processor board, he finally tried the color wheel. That was it. Apparently, it was spinning, but not fast enough to privide the processor with the green light to fire the lamp.

As I said, that color wheel replacement lasted a little over a year. This time, I was watching TV the other night when I heard a strange sound from it, the screen went blue for a few seconds, and then the lamp shut off. Having been through the drill with the technician before, and armed with Scott’s great instructions, I went right for the color wheel. As soon as I pulled the cover off, I knew I had guessed right. The color wheel had totally shattered inside there. I am thinking a heat issue possibly, but the fan does spin and it is clean. The room is large and open and not hot (70deg). I love the picture, but I just wonder how many others have multiple problems like this?

By Terry on Nov 9, 2006

Thanks for all the time you took writing this, I have just completed replacing my color wheel, said a prayer, turn the set on, and !!!! Perfect !!!

Thanks for your hard work.

Bob

By Bob on Nov 13, 2006

I have an HLP5063WX/XAA. I purchased the BP9600250A color wheel and it does not fit. I went on samsungparts.com and they reference BP9600674A for my model TV. When I took the TV apart the color wheel was attached to the cover and appeared to be slightly bigger than the color wheel I purchased. Does anyone have a picture of the color wheel with the part number BP9600674A? I would like to make sure I buy the right one next time.

By Nick King on Nov 14, 2006

Thank you so much for this information. I did the exact steps mentioned in your document and got my color wheel replacement for $135. The outcome was a great success and my family and I can enjoy our $3000 HDTV in peace again.

By Jeff on Nov 15, 2006

Scott
Thank you so much for the excellent directions. It was amazing to me that I could fix this myself. The noise started Mon. night, found this site Tues morning, ordered the parts and fixed it Weds night. I could not of done this without your directions and everyone elses comments.

Couple of notes:
- The dreaded w/w/b wire came off pretty easily using two jewelers screwdrivers.
- When I turned the set back on there was no picture. I double checked everthing and found I had pinched the w/w/b wire when putting the color wheel cover back on. I was able to reuse the original wire and with one more prayer, the set was up and working.

By JEFFREY B on Nov 16, 2006

Scott,

1 hour 20 minutes, 2 beers, $138 for the wheel, quiet TV watching… Priceless! Plus not a single swear word. Thanks for your guidance.

Now if I could get instructions on how to replace the front screen that my 5 year old and his friend thought would make a good dart board I would be back to almost new condition.

Steve

By Steve P on Nov 17, 2006

Scott,

I received my new wheel about 3 hours before the start of the
Ohio State - Michigan game. Thanks to your beautiful instructions I was finished replacing the wheel with a hour to spare and watch the game.Thank you for the heads up and the money you helped me save.

By DREW on Nov 18, 2006

I want to thank you for the excellant directions. I was prepared to spend 400.00 with a service man and my son told me to research the internet. I ran across your article and ordered the part overnight and installed it today in about 2 hours from start to finish. Great job.

By Floyd on Nov 22, 2006

I’m the Canadian that linked the website for Global electronics where you can buy parts for your samsung tv north of the border. http://www.globalsemi.com

Anyway, I finally got around to changing the color wheel and there were a few things different in my tv, but I figured it all out.

I also changed the bulb too, I thought I would just use the old one for a spare since it was still working. Once I powered the tv up the picture was noticeably brighter and more vivid. And of course whisper quiet. I’m not sure what made the picture so much better, because I did three things: I cleaned the lens, which was extremely dusty, I changed the bulb that was still working anyway, and of course the new color wheel.

The tv is just like new again! Thanks Mr. Jangro for all the great advice on your site.

By Michael on Nov 23, 2006

Thanks! I have the exact same model as you do and had the color wheel failure.
A few comments for others: when removing the brown and blue wire from the connector on top of the color wheel housing, remember to squeeze the white connector to release it; when attaching the new color wheel, use the reverse procedure that was used in removing the bad one: elevate the back or posterior edge until it hits and rests against the scanner blade, then push back until the front or leading edge hole lines up with the protrusion from below, it will then nicely snap into place. The reverse does not seem to work.
Set then worked perfectly! Excellent job!

By Ed De Persio on Nov 23, 2006

GREAT INFORMATION

Just had a tech here about the noise on my MLN507WX and he said it was a motor and would have to be rebuilt and run about 600.00 !! B.S. Thank god for the internet and Scott.

My noise sounded like a buzz saw at the neighbors house. As someone said, only two moving parts. I guess the color wheel is the fix. Will order today and fix this week. Right now I don’t hear it.

Thanks for the great info.

Mark

By Mark on Nov 25, 2006

Jangro,

I got the screaming banshee noise about 2 weeks ago on my nearly 4 year old HLM-507WX. I was in denial for about a week before ordering the part through PartStore.com. In the week it took to arrive the low-level squealing became a full-fledged buzz saw.

I spent about 2 hours taking everything apart, as detailed in your instructions, spending much of the time vacuuming and using my oil-less air compressor to clean the dust out of everything. I’ve got a couple of notes for you in the process.

First, it was easier to get the color wheel cover off by unscrewing the DLP blub socket from the frame. The conductors on my model came straight back above the color wheel cover. Second, the three wire connector between the color wheel and electronics is extremely brittle, probably from the heat. I’ve got lots of tools, some pretty small, and none could extract the plug without it decomposing. Fortunately, the new color wheel came with all new cabling.

I’m a computer engineer and am very accustomed to working on very sensitive electronics both at home and work, however, I’ve never been so nervous with this color wheel operation. Next time I’ll have a beer before I start and about 5 more after I’m done!

Thanks again for taking the time to document the process.

Eric

By Eric on Nov 28, 2006

Thank you so much for posting this. If you have a favorite charity please send me the link and I will donate on your behalf.Much appreciated.
Randy

By RAndy on Nov 28, 2006

Ok. After reading this site, I’m a color wheel replacement believer. But, I would like to hear someone answer the question posed by JShomaker1 on Oct. 26th regarding dimming picture–i.e., loss of brightness. I also have that problem. I used the on-screen menu to increase the brightness from 50% to 85%, and that helped somewhat. Will replacing CW affect brightness? Is it the obvious–that I need to replace the lamp?

By fspina on Nov 29, 2006

Many many thanks….I think calling you a After work life saver is an understatement. Like you said the noise started out like a little buzz now it sounds like a swarm of Bees. Other than that is a Great TV

By Jason on Nov 29, 2006

I just replaced the color wheel for my HLN437WX/XAA without any problems. Thank you. I’m still having a faint high-pitched noise. When I shut off the TV the noise stops and the fan keeps going for a short time and is not the cause of the noise. I hope I don’t have to replace the color wheel again. Any other suggestions. Thanks

By Dave on Nov 30, 2006

I just finished replacing mine on a HLN507W1/XAA.

There were a couple of screws in different places, and some additional cables that needed to be removed from some standoffs (but not disconnected).

Other than that the directions were perfect. All it takes is a little patience and you can save some big bucks!

By Mike on Dec 1, 2006

I just finished the repairs, everything went well…Except for the fact the bulb will not turn on and I have a blinking lamp light.

Any insight would be appreciated.

By Chris on Dec 1, 2006

Thank you so much, Scott, for your generosity in creating this website and taking the time to document each step so well. This is truly a selfless act that has helped so many of us.

I came across your website after living with the screaming banshee in my HLN5065W1X/XAA for over a year! I am sorry I waited that long, because I, too, had the w-w-b plug melt to the dmd board connector. I think if I’d have replaced the cw sooner, maybe I wouldn’t have had to use dental tools and tweezers for over 4 hours to carefully scrape the melted plug out of that connector. But, I did it, and I replaced the dmd fan too. I also had another connector break in the process. While carefully digging, I thought if I removed the plug where the lamp assy connects, maybe I’d have a better angle for scraping. Yes, but, with a price. The composite housing of that plug snapped in two when I tried to reattach it. Now I have to take the back cover off when I replace the lamp in the future.

I had all 3 binking lights the first time I put the cover back on, and I looked in the service manual (a well spent $28) and it called out a connector. I opened it back up and a white ribbon style connector had inadvertently disconnected from a board on the front left side. So I reattached it and tried it again and it worked flawlessly.

Bottom line, no more screaming banshee, and the TV is enjoyable once again! Just in time for Christmas DVDs and video games! Thank you again and Merry Christmas to you and yours!

Renee

By Renee on Dec 3, 2006

I have a 71″ Samsung DLP. I just notice at the bottom on the right hand side, there is what appears to be a slightly rainbowed “mark” like a giant hair about one inch long. Would anybody have an idea of what this could be?

Thank you,

Tim

By Tim on Dec 3, 2006

I need a bit of help. I pulled everything out, replaced the color wheel, and put it all back together… except Ihave one cable for which I cannot find the connector! The cable has three wires on it, two white and one blue. Looking at the back of the set, on the left side, it is the second cable from the bottom of the center panel. The Samsung service manual refers to this as CN301. According to the Service Manual, it is supposed to be connected to CN100 on “PCB RMC” (the PCB for the remote control, I think). But I cannot find this connector. Any help will be appreciated.

By Frank on Dec 3, 2006

Ok, after walking away from this for a while, I went back to it. I finally found CN100 stamped on the left rear corner of the analog board (the board on the left if you are looking at the TV from the back. But there is no connector.

On the other hand, I have an empty four pin connector at CN104, but the Service Manual has this marked as “Not Relevant”.

So I’m still not sure where this cable from CN301 is supposed to connect.

By Frank on Dec 3, 2006

If you do, and this cable is not for the remote, can you (or anyone) tell me which cable does control the remote functions? The remote functions no longer work on my set. I am sure I left off a connector n(or have a loose connection) but I cannot seem to find it. Thanks for any help you might be able to provide!
Laurie

By Laurie on Dec 4, 2006

Laurie,

In my case, the cable in question is definitely for the remote. The TV works great except for the remote. No more whining / table saw sounds.

By Frank on Dec 4, 2006