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The most common issue with Samsung DLP televisions is, by far, the color wheel going. Got a buzzing sound in your TV? Your color wheel is going...
This is fantastic timing! I ordered my color wheel the other day and plan to replace it using these instructions tomorrow.
These are going to be very helpful.
Thank you for taking the time to do this for all us who will follow behind you.
Tom
Many thanks for the directions. They were right on the button... and yes I too had problems getting out the little plug on the socket above the color wheel cover. It broke into pieces and I had to take the pieces out separately!!! got there in the end tho'. So grateful for the very well documented process. One thing that you might like to add is a check list for plugs which were unplugged that way when it comes to re-assembly you won't foget one like I did. Only remembered I hadn't connected it when I got the temp warning light on the front panel lit up. I just had to pull off the back and access the plug by taking out the lamp. Bit of a pain but everything was ok after this.
Hello all,
Thanks for the info. I have a 3 year old HLN617WX and had no problems until recently I had to change the bulb. After changing, the new bulb began to shut down the tv. Calling Samsung, they suggested a defective lamp so I got another one sent only to have the TV continually shutting down. Any ideas? Samsung is worthless and can't even send me to the correct person to adress this
Thanks
Jake
Ok Ok you guys talked me into to it. Never tackled any thing like this before but will give it a try. I will be ordering a wheel today. Scott thanks for all the info here. I'll let you know how it goes in a few days when I recieve the wheel. I'm sick of listening to that eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
Later, Jim
thanks for all the feedback guys.
As for the wire I missed, I've been through it twice and I can't think of what it was, but I'll have another chance to check it out soon. I just ordered another color wheel to replace the one in my in-laws' Samsung DLP. Was down there this weekend and theirs is shot too.
Jim, good luck!
Scott,
Super information. I have an HLN617 and just ran
out of the warranty. Ordered a new lamp and replaced it. Then ordered a new ballast and replaced it...no help at Samsung.. they just pass me around and no one around here to work on them.. After reading your article... sounds familiar. My TV stays on for 3 minutes after being unplug for a day or 2 and looks great. Then, lamp goes out, and it turns off. If I tried to restart it, I get this horrible siren sound. I guess I am down to the color wheel and will try that. Thanks for your information.
Tom in Montana
Scott,
Thank you so much for helping me save about $500! Your step by step explanation gave me the confidence to replace the color wheel on my DLP TV. We have the exact same Samsung model as yours and have been loving the picture as well since 2003.
One thing I noticed was a mislabeled photo below Step 3. You have the arrows pointing to empty screw holes that are used for the back cover. The two screws that should be removed at that point are along the bottom of that panel.
Again, thanks so much for showing that a few tools, coupled with the ability to follow directions can help us replace our buzzsaw with a color wheel. By the way, is it just us, or are the colors more vibrant after the switch?!?
Best regards,
-Daniel (82 minutes!) Only 3586 hours on lamp in 3 years.
P.S. - I didn't notice any additional wires to remove as a couple of people mentioned.
The instructions are great. I have already saved them for future references but I wonder if the color wheel can be simply fixed sometimes. If it is making a grinding noise couldn't it be re-aligned or cleaned somehow? It is sort of a disk rotating on an axis, isn't it? Has anyone heard of fixing the color wheel at home? Has anyone attempted this? Regards
Ernesto
I tried taking my old color wheel apart, and the bearings are pretty well sealed up. I'm not sure exactly what's going on in there, but it's probably bearings, like a skateboard wheel.
The bearings themselves (or one of them) are probably damaged resulting in a less than smooth ride.
For the fun of it, I tried spraying some lubricant in there to see if it would quiet down when turning it by hand, and it didn't. I'd caution strongly against trying that in actual practice as the spinning wheel could spray lubricant around in the set.
The old color wheel has become sort of a novelty item on my desk.
Still waiting for my order from PartStore.com. Was sent Fedex, Fedex transfered to USPS?
I was wondering though if anyone has heard about this. I was searching ebay and was reading about a DLP lamp. The guy was saying when you replace your lamp you should reset your lamp hours and clean the fans. If this is'nt done you ruin your new lamp right away. Has anyone here heard of such a thing?
Later, Jim
Well it came today and I installed it. Just like you said Scott about a hour and a half. I also had to remove one more wire to make the pull out. I also removed my fan. Sounds just like new, no noise just that fan lol.
I agree with you on that replacing the lamp. Restricted air flow yes. Resetting hours would be of no use.
Scott THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU. I would have never attempted this without your instructions. You my friend are a fine man.
Later, Jim
Anyone,
My TV recently started to make this fan noise and sometimes it has a hard time turning on --- the standby temp light stays on after I turn it off. The picture still looks great, but that noise is driving my wife NUTS!
Based on this info --- what is your assessment? I'm more than willing to do this thing myself, but need to ensure I'm doing the right things. I have the Samsung Model: HLP5063WX/XAA and it's 2 years old.
Thanks in advance!
Adam
given that the noise turns off immediately, I'd say the noise is your color wheel. What's the color wheel? It's the part that the above article was written about. Read from the top of this page. There are two cooling fans in the set as well. You can see them in the above pictures, one of which you can see from the back of the set when it's all put together.
I've heard from one person who had a bad fan, and he got a message on the screen about "Fan #2".
I'm not sure what the light your're seeing means, so there could be something else wrong too. But I think if you're hearing a loud noise that stops immediately when you turn off the set, you've at least got a bad color wheel.
I'll also add a disclaimer here that my advice is not "expert". I'm just a guy who happens to have a technical background who took apart my own TV, did some research, and wrote these instructions.
Scott --- thanks for the quick reply. When I turn the TV off -- the sound stops immediately. It is only when it is turned on that it makes the noise.
Also, what is the difference between the color wheel, the lamp, and the cooling fan? I think I may need to replace the cooling fan, but need some expert advice.
Thanks again!
Adam
I have a Samsung DLP HL-P5063W TV and called the Best Buy technician out to fix the color wheel (making the same noise described above).
The technician came out, put the new color wheel in and thought it was defective as the color was off on the TV. The technician played with some (factory I believe) color settings and couldn't seem to fix it. He replaced the old color wheel. The issue is that when he replaced the old color wheel the issue with the color was still there (and had not been present before he started).
My HD television channels have perfect color but my non-HD channels are tinted in such a way that skin tone is a purple-ish color.
I had them out a month later and they replaced the entire color wheel (chassis?) and the color problem has now persisted and I am at this moment in a battle with Best Buy to either replace the TV or find a technician that can fix my problem.
In a nutshell I am convinced now that the original tech somehow messed up color settings I can not get to (or don't know how). The color problem was not there before the initial visit and the subsequent technicians only seem to know how to take parts out and put a new part in (none of which have fixed it). I have tried playing with all the color settings the manual speaks of and have not fixed the issue.
Has anyone seen or heard anything like this and does anyone have a potential fix for it? Are there color settings that are not in the Manual that the original tech could have screwed with? And why is it just the normal channels and not effecting the HD channels? I am completely stumped.
I have the Samsung DLP HL-P5063W also. My "buzzsaw" sound starts when we turn on, but sometimes doesn't make any noise at all. When it does, it lasts for hours; when we turn off, picture goes black, and the sound continues for 3-4 seconds and gradually fades away (loud to low to no sound...like a table saw shutting down). So I am concerned that it may not be the color wheel as some have described. What do you think?...and by the way, thank you for the great instruction page.
Dave, sounds like the color wheel to me. The fan runs for a long time after the set turns off.
The table-saw analogy is not that far off. Picture that wheel at the top of the page spinning at many thousand RPM. If you turn it off, it doesn't stop on a dime. Even my bad one that I removed from my set, if I spin it with my finger, will spin for a few seconds.
Michael, thanks for the comment. Glad it helped.
Have a HLN507WX. A few months ago had the loud buzzsaw/"bicycle wheel spoke obstacle" noise. Had sound and picture. Later the noise went away and was replaced by an initial "whinning" sound that dies out in a few seconds. After a few seconds it "whines" again. All this while in standby and NO picture, but sound is OK. After a couple of attempts the 3LED blinks and then the set turns off. I am suspecting the color wheel, but a service man suggested the lamp. So I replaced the lamp with no luck.
Details/summary:
The following original parts in the TV:
Ballast: BP4700008A (100P/H00,100W) Phillips
Lamp: BP9600224C Phillips
Color wheel: (probably) BP9600250A
Actions taken:
Replaced lamp with: BP9600224J 120W Phillips - DID NOT WORK
my concern here is if I also need to replace the ballast to support the 120W Lamp or is this a non-issue and should I go directly to replacing the color wheel?
Any other thoughts?
Thanks in advance. I see a lot of satisfied posters, so congratulations on this very helpful site.
Scott,
I wrote on September 3rd about the loud noice. Replaced the color wheel following your instructions... and it's beautiful. The first time after the replacement I turned it on.. I got a little squeal when it started up ... then it got quiet.. and everything is beautiful.
Thanks for the instructions.. Samsung should put them on their web site.
Tom
Good to know. My Crapsung DLP (hl-p5063w) has had issues since new. Returned the first two to CircuitCity so now I'm on my third. I should have just gotten a refund after the second one but I didn't use my head! My third set (now out of warranty of course) acts up all the time. I get the three leds occasionally, vertical lines on startup (before I select a input), humming and strange noises and sometimes it will not power on at all. If I power down that solves the problem but it is annoying. I've been tempted to purchase a similar model numerous times with the same bulb and swap it out then return the new one and get a refund. The little man on my left shoulder with the pitchfork and horns says "do it" the little guy in the white robe with the halo on my right says "don't do it". So far I've listened to the guy on my right. If I was sure that the TV I took the bulb from would get shipped back to Crapsung from the vendor I would do it in a heartbeat with no regrets. I'm just afraid that the vendor or some poor slob would get stuck with it. Anyway it's good to know that there are people out there that have the stones to take these things apart and fix them themselves.
Just a side thought. After looking at the photos about changing the light wheel. Do you think it would be prudent to attempt cleaning the color disk occasionally, perhaps with a low p.s.i. of compressed air. I would think that over time there would be a buildup of dust on the wheel and bulb that would affect performance. I think I recall someone telling me that they needed to get the lenses of their guns cleaned on their projection T.V. I guess a buildup of dirt and dust would affect performance. What do you thnk!
Chad, That white/white/blue wire has frayed a lot of nerves. We encountered the same problem... but a lot of patience and a pair of needle nose pliers did the job. As others have siad, just be careful not to damage the socket.
Scott, Your instructions were so good that even we were able to handle the job in under 2 hours... with a minimum of panic. We found the instructions by accident when we called a repairman to come to the house... and he quoted a price of about $1750... $1000 just for the part. Once we kicked him out (the only "authorized" Samsung repair service to serve Manhattan) we decided to check online for other people who may have had the same problem (before we tossed out the TV). Found your instructions... ordered the part from The Parts Store, and a few days later, had a quiet and crisp picture once again. (had to pay the repair service about $110 just to show up, but it was worth it to find out what the part was that needed replacement). Thanks for the idea... the instructions... and the support of everyone else who has written! There is NO WAY we would have tackled the job without this!
Tom,
Right on! Replaced the color wheel of my HLN507WX and the set worked. Did not have to use the newer lamp (will use as a spare) and so the ballast was not an issue either. Thanks for reassuring me.
Scott,
Thanks for the great site. Following your instructions and in about 1 1/2 hours, success is sweet.
Good luck to all readers.
like others here, I took the plunge as well. took me just under 2 hours to replace the CW assy on my 3 year old HLN5065W DLP.
the hardest part for me was installing the new CW assy without binding it or scratching the wheel. spent at least 20 minutes trying various angles, etc before it finally slid in place. at one point I was convinced the new wheel housing was just too big to fit! lack of patience would have surely done me in!
the white/white/blue wire was a little tough as many others have mentioned. I was able to get it out pretty much "intact" by observing the connector on the new wheel assy and noting where the two "nubs" were that sort of hold the male half in the socket. the nubs are on the inside portion of the connector (the side facing the innards of the tv). by sliding an xacto knife in between the male and female halves of the connector (thus putting a slight gap between the male and female halves) then twisting the knife as I pulled towards me, I was able to get the connector off.
put everything back together, plugged the tv in and "shazaam" -- worked great!
thanks to Scott and all others who posted their experiences. couldn't (wouldn't) have done it without your inputs.
© 2012 http://www.jangro.com/
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Just need to change your bulb? Read this: how to change your Samsung DLP Lamp.
I've got one of the early models of the Samsung 43" DLP Television sets. We've been through a lot together, but it's just a fantastic picture. I love it.
Thankfully, I purchased the extended warranty for 4 years, because I've been through 3 lamps. However, as always, something went wrong after the warranty expired. It started a few months ago, a buzzing sound. It started out pretty soft, like someone was holding a very thin wire in the blades of a running fan. As weeks passed, that sound increased, and finally it became an all-out scream (just in time for the World Cup).
Inside this television are only two moving parts that could cause that sound, the cooling fan and the color wheel. I know about the color wheel because I've seen it talked about over and over again on the Internet. I think the service guy may have mentioned it once or twice when he was here replacing the lamp. With all that mention, clearly this thing has issues. And, I can see the fan, and it doesn't spin at the same time that this sound is produced.
It needed to be replaced. There was no longer any putting it off. I happened to mention it to a BestBuy sales-kid and asked him where I should have it fixed. He said I could just call a local Samsung authorized repair shop, or "you could just repair it yourself." The words echoed in my mind. I never considered that possibility and I dreaded the thought of my television being picked up or dropped off and gone for weeks. When I got home, I went online and found a few forums where guys shared that they successfully replaced their own color wheels and that it wasn't that difficult. Say no more...
If you have the same problem and are thinking about fixing it yourself, it really isn't that difficult. If you've ever taken your PC apart, this is not much different... The process involves about 20 screws, 5 or 6 cables to unplug, and of course put it all back. The toughest part about these projects is knowing what to take out and where to look for the part you're replacing. The first time, I took out quite a bit more screws and cables than necessary. I did it again to write this article and now you don't need to think about all that.
Purchase a Color Wheel
My television is model Samsung HLM4365WX and the color wheel part number for that is BP96-00250A. This color wheel is used in many, many Samsung televisions, but you should confirm that your model is on the compatibility list.
You can get a great price at MCM Electronics and they have some fast shipping options. If your model doesn't match mine, just search their database to make sure you get the correct part.
The Repair Job
Requirements:
Notes:
Center panel. The two screws on the bottom have larger heads than the rest. Remember that these go here. There are two more screws on the bottom that hold the vertical panel to the base. No need to remove them. If you do, things get a bit floppy.
There are a few cables on the left side restricting it. You'll need to unplug these:
This arrow is pointing to two of the cables. Follow the brown/blue one to the other end to unplug it. Right behind this arrow is the white connector for the white/blue cable.
Here's one of the screws that are different. Remember to use the smaller brass screw here later.
Now you can slide the center panel and all the parts behind it out of the television. If you didn't remove any cables on the left panel, you'll have to swing everything over to the left to clear the television.
Note: Steps 7-9 are removing the bad color wheel. I suggest doing these steps carefully, as if you were going to need to use this color wheel again. You never know if you may need to reverse what you've done.
Before doing step 7, read the entire step. There is two ways to do it.
Note: A reader made the following excellent suggestion to avoid breaking the white connector on the end of the blue/white/white wire:
Color wheel cover view from top-down. This part has three screws and slides straight up.
Insert the new colorwheel. It can be tricky to do this without touching the wheel, or bumping the wheel into the case. (This is where you need the nerves of steel). Once you get the proper angle, it will slide into place. Don't force it -- remember, this thing needs to spin at 9000 RPM, it's probably pretty sensitive. At first, I tried to put it in place with the screws already in the holes. This didn't allow me to slide it in properly. Lesson learned: put it in without the screws and then hold the screws in place with tweezers, if necessary.
Put the color wheel cover back on with the wires out the space facing the front of the case. Make sure the wires reach their destinations, and screw in the cover. Three screws. Attach the three connectors. The metal contacts on the ribbon cable face the rear.
Put all the guts back in place. Slide the center unit back in. Without touching the projector lens, open up the slice in the foam so it wraps around the projector lens, and slide it in the rest of the way. The center unit can only go in on it's track, so again, don't force anything. Connect the two wires you removed on the left side. They should only go in one way. Did I mention don't force anything? Screw the sensor switch onto the bracket on the right.
Put the power cable in it's slot. Just the way you noted on the way out.
Slide the left PC board and panel back in place. There are two screws that hold it in place that you screw in now, the rest hold on the access panel.
Put the projector lamp back in place and screw it into place. I forgot to do this both times.
Put the access panel back on and screw it in (14 screws)
Plug in the television, say a prayer, and turn it on.
If things don't work as expected, like the TV doesn't turn on you probably missed putting a connection back. 99.9% of the time this is the case. The other .1% is that the new color wheel is bad or something else is defective.
If the red and blue colors on your set seem to be reversed, there's one step you may be able to do here to fix it.