I used the "menu-1-8-2- power" sequence on my remote to center the picture on my Samsung 46 in. DLP TV. It worked just fine and I got the picture centered. Then a while later I ugraded to the Directv HD DVR and now the picture is off center again. I've tried 20 times to get back to the 'Factory Loading' menu again but it never works now. How do I get back to recenter my picture? Thanks for your time. Y'all Havagoodun, Ed C.
Can't get to the service menu on my HLP6163WX/XAA (money pit). I've tried the "menu" 1,8,2, power. and "mute" 1,8,2, power methods. Possibly I'm not holding my mouth right while doing this.
I just replaced the color wheel and lamp, the colors are correct but I have horrible, green shadows especially in dark haired people.
Can someone help me?
Should we all consider a class-action suit against Samsung?
I have a Samsung DLP HLN467w purchased in Aug 2004. I recently added a Bose home theater system and though we were having issues with the TV turning on and off intermidently before the addition of the Bose system now the TV does not go oin at all. Is this a lamp issue. There is no way we have even passed 3500 hours. Any suggestions?
I replaced my lamp, ballast and colorwheel in my Samsung HL-R5067W.
Now, I have 6 vertical green bars running through the picture.
Re-opened the TV. Checked all connections. Checked that the color wheel was correctly installed and it would appear to be perfect.
All of the menus display clearly. But the images coming from any of the inputs are wrecked by the bars.
Next, I'm cheching the connections to the digital inputs between that part of the TV and the light engine.
Samsung Service has been NO HELP.
I have a Samsung HLN5065 8400 hours on the current lamp. Had a whining color wheel. Replaced it with ease thats to this site. I never would have attempted it otherwise. I have a secondary problem. My picture freezes black and white at times. Sometimes soon after the unit is turned on and sometimes hours later. Is this a sign of the lamp going south on me or is there another problem that I should be looking for? Samsung was no help.
I have samsung hlp-4663 1. Changed bulb- worked for awhile but than went out. I was told if there is a good picture whatsever even for a few minutes it's not the lamp. Could it be the ballast
I'm getting all sorts of different blinking light combos. So who knows what they mean.
The menu-1..8..2-power sequence will not work. I have tried it all. So I can't find out the hours on the lamp. I'm sure it's over 6K.
When the ballast gets some hours on it, is it likely to get hot quicker?
I've read the horror stories of folks buying 1. Lamp 2. Ballast 3. Color wheel 4. DMB? board
and none of them work.
I'm having back surgery in 3 weeks and I'm going to be home/bed/chair bound all winter. I'm in bad shape right now.
Can anybody help?
I replaced the color wheel in my Samsung DLP TV (model HLP 5063W) and solved all of the original problems but now have poor screen color quality with predominant blues. Apparently the fix for this is to remove the jumper wire (CN810), but I haven't been able to get to this wire due to a black plastic bracket blocking the small rectangular access hole. ( I would be glad to post a picture -how?) I do not see a way to get this bracket off. I think I need to dissassemble the DMD - how do I do that?
You aren't removing a jumper wire, you're removing that black plastic bracket. The little black "cap" IS the jumper, it should pull off the two pins it's connecting (I used tweezers to reach it on my HLP-5063WX). If you're familiar with a computer hard drive, the little black jumper used to set the drive as Master / Slave / Cable Select is what you're looking for to pull off your TV's board. Hope this is accurate to your question.
Thank you for responding. My problem is actually different, and I have solved it. It was embarassingly easy. In case this helps someone, the bracket I'm talking about is a relatively large one attached to the silver clamshell that houses the circuit board. It covers up the little access hole through which you can get to that little tiny black plastic jumper cap. Apparently not all HLP-5063WX sets have this bracket; I think it is just for holding wires out of the way (I posted a photo on Fixya). Anyway, I finally figured out that if I removed the fan in front of the housing I could get the housing apart very easily (just two screws) and I could access the whole circuit board and then pull that little cap/jumper (look for CN810). This completely resolved all of the screen color issues, and my TV is working great (and is much quieter with the new color wheel).
Update: First replaced the lamp (worked for a while, then picture went out). Then replaced the ballast (worked for a while then picture went out again. I gave up and called Samsung tech. Solution was: When I replaced the lamp, the faulty ballast was the cause of the old lamp not working (old lamp was actually still okay). So I replaced the ballast with a new lamp. After replacing the ballast the picture didn't work because the new lamp was defective. Hope this helps.
I have HLP507W Samsung. 6.5 yrs old. have replaced lamp at 3 years and 6 yrs. hrs was total of 8295 last Oct 08 replacement. Had to replace the color wheel in Dec 08. All worked very well for 2 months Then got vertical lines about every 1/4 inch thru the picture. unplugged power for a while and tryed. then had good picture. This lasted about 2 weeks then got unreadable picture vertical and horiz bars of color. Unplugged then would be okay till turned off and on. Now I cannot recover just horiz jagged lines. audio okay. Have checked for loose plugs, wires with no avail. Any ideas? before changing color wheel no problem except the loud whining noise.
I just came upon this site and I think it is great. I think my Samsung DLP HDTV has a vendetta against me. When I try to watch it or play a video game it will shut itself down and sometimes it won't come back on. However it does not shut off at all when my wife or son turn it on, How wierd is that? Anyhoo, thanks for the info I tried it and we will see.
I replaced the color wheel in my HLN46 and I'm left with this blue and black unattached small cord! I should have marked it, but I ain't a smart guy. It's not the color wheel wire, that's attached. It comes out of the same outputs as the fan power cords, it's the bottom one. Does anyone know where this goes? The other red and whites go to fans.
I have a similar problem. The three blinking indicator lights said i had a bad bulb so I replaced the bulb and housing unit but still no picture. I have sound though. In fact, right now I have sound, no picture but my tv will not turn off, even if I physically hit the power button. The light blinks as though a signal is received but nothing happens. It also does not respond to the remote but a light blinks so i know it received a signal.
Please help - I tried two new bulbs and i don't know what else to try. Is the ballast easy to replace on my own?
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The questions I get most often are "How do you reset the lamp hours counter?" and "How do you get into the service menu?"
The service menu is pretty well hidden behind a sequence of key presses on your remote. Here's how to get in there:
Turn your system off.
Press the following buttons individually with a short pause between each: Mute-1-8-2-Power.
The Television will turn on into the service menu. Once in there look in the Options menu for the lamp hours and counter reset. As for the other settings, I've never messed with them, and I'd caution against playing around there!