Hey Scott, you stated that you had 3 lamps replaced under warranty. Did all 3 lamps just go out? I was using the same bulb for my set for 6500 hours. I decided to replace it. I thought the picture was'nt as bright. I was reading different articles saying the bulbs are lucky to last 2000 hours. They just either go out or go dimmer. Well after replacing the lamp the picture looks the same. So now I guess I have a 6500 hour spare lamp LOL.
Thanks, Jim
Thanks, Scott. Lots of work just to help out the rest of us.
I bought my lamps (BP9600224J) from Samsung at
http://www.samsungparts.com. They were $179 vs. $249 at
http://www.partstore.com. (For color wheels, PartStore is actually a bit less than Samsung, at least as of today.)
Note that discount-merchant mentioned by Ali sells the lamp itself - not the entire assembly. For $145 for the lamp alone from direct vs. $179 for an entirely new assembly, I chose to replace the whole thing. Personal preference, I guess.
Where do you look to find the number of hours on your lamp?
I noticed some references to a service mode and resetting the hours in the comments on replacing the color wheel (which I will be doing when the part arrives). Thanks for the info...I was dreading taking the TV for service for the high pitched whining. Model HLN5065W.
Well, today my tv has been clonking out... My girlfriend was using it today, she said hey the tv wont work and the lights are blinking.. So i was like oh crap, I went downstairs, looked at the manual, found out about the lamp being faulty... I turned the TV off and on, still 3 blinking lights, did it again, same thing. I then unplugged it, waited and plugged it back in. I then turned it on, same thing. I finally did it one more time and it worked. It seems like if I keep the lamp on, it works fine. It just can't power up at times... I bought this tv OCTOBER of 2006!!! I checked the lamp life and it has 824hours, less than 1000. Wow this is a bunch of crap. I'm going to call Samsung tomorrow and request service. I can't believe I have to waste my 1 bulb replacement after 3 months. Ugh...
BTW, i have a Samsung HL-S5686W. The picture is still crystal clear, and the brightness hasn't changed when it is working. However I know when it isn't going to work because when the picture first appears, it is dimmer than usual, then after 15 seconds, it will disapear and the 3 lights start blinking. Before this, when I turn on the tv, it starts out somewhat dim, and slowly gets brighter to the regular brightness, now when it works, there is no picture at all, and then it automatically snaps to the regular brightness( while it does take about 20 seconds for the image to appear)
[...] Almost all of the relatively affordable rear projection HD sets sold these days depend on a highly-customized version of a projector lamp to produce those cool moving pictures on the screen. Nothing very bleeding edge, it’s just a brighter version of the lamp you may have replaced in your high school’s 16mm projectors (if you were a school A/V geek in the 1980s like I was). The ones used in Samsung DLP sets are rated for 5000 hours of use before failure; mine gave out after 3386 hours (there’s an internal counter). An overnighted order of the right lamp from SamsungParts.com, as well as a color wheel for later replacement, I and I was able to fix the display in a few minutes. [...]
I have a problem with my HLN5065W. Occasionally the tv will boot up fine with a good picture. Then after a few minutes or an hour or so, the picture will freeze with every pixel either black or white. It shows a rough picture of the last frame before the tv froze. The sound continues.
I need a new lamp anyway, 6100 hours. But I have not read about a similar issue. So that may not be related to my old lamp. Anyone hear about anything similar?
I am having the same problem as Steve, Jan. 20, 2007 commented on. (Same set HLN5065W purchased 2003) After about an hour (sometime two) the picture will freeze in black and white pixels of the last frame. Sound continues fine. Unplugging and re-pluggin in the tv brings the picture back but only for a time. Then the same thing happens again. Is this bulb related? Getting to be a pain (mostly for the wife). I, too, have noted mentions of checking the time for the bulb. Where does one check this? I find no reference to this timer in any of the Samsung manual.
This is steve from jan20. I found on another forum that the black and white freeze problem is probably a bad DMD control board. These cost about $250. So with a new lamp, I'm looking at almost $500 in parts only.
The service menu has a page that tells the lamp timer. while the set is off, press mute, 1, 8, 2, on.
It sounds as though I am having a very similar problem what Joel is describing. Mine, however, is even more sinister (but possibly same cause). My TV plays it like the entire screen area consists of horizontal rectangles. Typically, the bottom half's image is distorted but, sometimes, it surprises us with the location. So the distortion itself follows Joel's description with the added bonus of blinking rectangles in the bottom half. It's very festive but, otherwise, impractical.
The bulb failed in my Samsung HL-P4674 about a month ago after about 2 years. I ordered a replacement lamp (a different part number) and replaced it. The new bulb lasted less than 2 weeks before it burned out. The lamps sound like they are exploding when they go. Could something like the ballast be causing the failures?
The tv just went off durring normal play. only had it 7.5 months. No sound and no picture. when trying to turn it back on, nothing not even sound, just blinking led's. then while leaving it on a few minutes later it came back with a picture and sound. If its my lamp wouldnt the sound always be going in the background? Should I just take it back to Costco?
Took it back to Costco. The pic wasnt just tinting green, There were green solid bars from top to bottm. Then off goes the power. Samsung support said it wasnt the Lamp, and it needed service. The service tech called and wasnt sure could be lamp, could be power something, anotherwords they have no clue. So off it went back to Costco.
First thanks for the useful post and discussion. I have an HLM-507W from early 2003. I've had the lamp replaced by technicians multiple times, and now it is out again. These instructions seem straightforward, however Samsung explicitly recommends not doing this yourself for this particular model. (They say it's ok on other models.) Anyone know why this might be? Is there anything special that must be done on this model?
Update on the black and white freeze problem I reported a few months ago. I had a Best Buy extended warranty that still had another 6 months to go. The tv was in the shop for about 6 weeks while they were looking for repair parts. They finally declared it unrepairable. I now have a new HL-T5075S tv free of charge.
My TV has often had a hard time turning on. It will try 3 times and then show the three blinking lights. Often I'd have to unplug the tv 2-3 times before it would start up.
Well now, my tv is making a new clicking noise, and its never starting up. The article mentions the clicking and I was wondering if thats a tell-tale sign that the bulb needs to be changed. Does clicking mean you need a new bulb?
I want to be sure its the bulb before shelling out a few hundred bucks. If its not the bulb then I'm just going to buy a new tv.
Color wheel dying. Also get a message in RED letters across the screen after the TV has been on about 10 minutes. Has anyone had that problem? Message says CHECK FAN # 1- repair guy just left- never heard of this message. Of course, it did NOT happen while he was here over 90 minutes. He did remove the cover from the lamp. Could that have helped? HLN-5065W bought in June 2003. First set was a lemon. Best Buy replaced it after only 3 months. Then lamp "died" after 650 hours. 2ND lamp lasted 3,700 hours. Present lamp has almost 4,000 hours. Tech. guy said leave set ON - don't turn off if I plan to watch something maybe 30 minutes later. Any comments?
What is the world record for "Lamp Life" on a Samsung DLP? I replaced "bulb only" at considerable cost savings and checked the lamp life (the lamp actually exploded with a major pop!). I checked the Service Menu and the lamp life was approximately 18,700 hours. I bought the 50" 5063 in January 2004.
Hi Jeff,
Good question. I've looked all over the web and everyone talks about resetting the "Lamp Life". I've yet to see any post that actually tells you how to do it. I just wrote down the hours and will use it as an accumulator. It may indeed be that if this is explained Samsung may view it as a copyright or legal intrustion to their trade secrets (since it is not documented by their consumer literature); otherwise you would think the explanation would be posted everywhere.
Jeff and Nadia, as my mom used to say, if it were a snake it would have bitten you. ;)
The answer is in this post:
http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/08/15/samsung-dlp-frequent-questions/
I am replacing my Samsung DLP HLN617WX/XAA
I ordered the new Phillips bulb. Immediately on disassembly of the light cage, I notice the wires from the bulb are crossed on the connector.
The old bulb connector wires fit into the wire guide plug, and into the guide with the radious alignment when crossed.
The new bulb fits into the guide with plug radious making the wires NOT crossed. Its a light bulb, is there any polarity issues?
This is absolutely going to put the wire from the lamp bottom on the opposite side and so forth.
I have thirty years in electrical, but this new lamp will only fit throught the radius of the guide uncrossed which looks correct, it almost looks like the old lamp was wrong, but it fit where it physically fit,
Anything to be concerned about? Is there a design change?
Need any info asap [of course] so any comments?
Anything would be much appreciated.
Will
I am replacing my Samsung DLP HLN617WX/XAA
I ordered the new Phillips bulb. Immediately on disassembly of the light cage, I notice the wires from the bulb are crossed on the connector.
The old bulb connector wires fit into the wire guide plug, and into the guide with the radious alignment when crossed.
The new bulb fits into the guide with plug radious making the wires NOT crossed. Its a light bulb, is there any polarity issues?
This is absolutely going to put the wire from the lamp bottom on the opposite side and so forth.
I have thirty years in electrical, but this new lamp will only fit throught the radius of the guide uncrossed which looks correct, it almost looks like the old lamp was wrong, but it fit where it physically fit,
Anything to be concerned about? Is there a design change?
Need any info asap [of course] so any comments?
Anything would be much appreciated.
Will
Thank you so much for the polarity issue comment. It made great sense. Now before I put it in, I tried to turn on the TV with NO bulb module in at all.
Green and red lights blink. NOthing
Put new bulb in [old was BAD filament was shattered all into chunks], blinking lights green and red -------nothing.
Reversed polarity which was just a desperation move.....NOthing
I was not around when it failed, my wife says the lights were on and off in the house like a substation was switching or a lightning storm but no storm.
The color wheel was replace several years ago under warranty.
ANy idea what the green and red blinkin mean if it is not the bulb?
It has NO picture, no fan whirl, no nothing but blinking lights.
What to replace next, any suggestions [besides the whole thing?]
Thanks again for the polarity on the bulb answer, it made perfect sense to me the leads were for different sets.
So on a power surge, I have to assume that is it, what else will fry?
Anyone have anything like this?
I appreciate it. I work on electrial appparatus all the time but this seems so weird.
It has to have happened to other sets.
email is [email protected]
Anyone with a motor problem of electrical problem of any kind see me at allexperts.com' href='http://allexperts.com">allexperts.com'>http://allexperts.com">allexperts.com under electrical or motors, glad to help out with anything from three way switches to motors to controllers to ...........Samsung DLP I am not doing well with
Thanks again for your time.
Will
When changing the Samsung Dlp TV Buld, the polarity key may not line up the bulb leads. I was advised and {CORRECTLY] the polarity has no effect.
When testing it says to make sure the lamp cover is in place and the lamp cover is noted on the Samsung interactive site as the metal cover over the lamp module.
It notes it must be in place to energize the television. What is correct ont the HLN617 w 61 inch unit is the plastic door [cover to the set must be in place.
I was tempted to leave it off and see what happens and then remove the module if required, no power up.
The top left cover has a plastic tab that depresses the safety circuit not the metal cover on the lamp module,
It is confusing on the Samsung site.
The outside cover depresses a switch that hardly has an motion but that cover has to be on.
I made the mistake and din't finish the screwing the metal lamp module cover on. It works fine without the cover inside on completely.
I will get the screws in it now but it is up and going, my mistake. Make sure all components are back on and in place when changing the bulb to energixe the set.
feel free to write me at [email protected] if you have any problems changing a Samdun DLP bulb,, been through it all.
Will
Will, If your house lights surged, its most likely the Ballast that has gone bad. You will get the same symptom whether your lamp is bad or both lamp and ballast.
The ballast is the board/part that is feeding the energy to the bulb (essentially where the other end of the cables connect.
If you are handy with tools, it shouldn't be to difficult for you to change on your own.
Good luck!
OK stupid time!
When putting in the new bulb, the outside plastic access cover must be put back on correctly, it allows the safety circuit to work, in the Samsung Vidoe it loooks like the metal cover must be on [it has to be on obviously] but it does not trip the safety circuit, it is in the TV housing itself. So don't try to leave it off and see if it works, it won't.
Put the plastic cover on! ANd the metal one.
Also the polarity of the bulb, the leads are "keyed" to go one way on the plug, makes no difference. At least so far, I have put it in both ways and it works great either way.
My mistake on that. Anyone with a Samsung bulb problem can contact me at [email protected]
I have done it and will be glad to help.
Will
I have a samsung HL-P5063W that keeps turning itself off after 2 minutes of use, I already checked the fan in the back and cleaned it up, but still, same problem, picture looks PERFECT, bright and clear, but again, it keeps shutting itself off all the time, I wonder if a new lamp will fix it? or any other part maybe. Thanks.
To Carlos,
Regarding the Samsung HL-P5063W, first keep checking this site. There are some great people on hear, and will give plenty of advice.
I had a bulb issue and removed the lamp module from my 61" unit. No where on the lamp module did I see any type of thermal cut out.
But what you are describing sounds like a thermal cut off switch that opens the circuit to the main power of the set, when it senses too much heat.
The TV comes on everytime after it shuts down, how long? Immediately? Do you have to give it time before turning it back on?
I can't see it being the bulb usually when the element burns in two it is permanent. If it were fractured and touching intermittently, that would be a long shot.
My bet it is that there is some kind of thermal going bad, or some other restriction of air to trip the thermal.
Cleaning the fan was the right idea.
But your problem can be timed so it almost has to be something designed to trip off due to heat.
I have seen devices like these go bad before in other devices and because they are auto resetting, usually they start tripping off in a shorter and then shorter time.
I will look through my manual for anything I can find and let you know if I find something.
But keep checking here, great people and very generous with their time.
Will
You can write me at allexperts.com or my home email if you wish. [email protected]
I don't repair televisions but I repair all kinds of other electrical and electronic devices and they all have similiar components.
Any chance your power connection to the wall is on a surge protector?
If so eleminate it for a while and see if it is going bad.
Will
James,
Why are you doing that? none of my business but are you trouble shooting or converting?
I know there are safeties in there, you could try and remove the lamp and put a 100 watt 110 volt rated resistor in it's place. No light but the resistor would get hot or warm.
Depends on what you are trying to do really.
Will
Will
Im looking to replace the light source with another for research and development reason. I would like to this with out contacting Samsung directly. I was aware of the resistor option , but not really ideal for my situation. We have tricked projectors in the past buy removing the lamp power supply board and adding some jumpers. Can I get a complete service manual from some where? Any info is helpful thanks.
James
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You power on your Samsung DLP. It takes extra long to turn on. Lots of clicking and a few power cycles? Your TV is trying a few times to get that pesky lamp going. Finally, the process ends with the dreaded three blinking lights. Your lamp is probably burned out. You've got a replacement lamp, right? ;)
First, sometimes you can stretch a little more life out of a tempermental, but not completely dead lamp. I've found that sometimes if I remove the lamp and put it back in, it'll work. I've also found that colder temperatures can cause a failure, even temporarily. So don't give up on it right away, especially if you don't have a replacement. Wait a while (especially if that allows the room to warm up some) and try again. Or, pull the lamp out and put it back in.
And if you do get it going, don't turn off the set until you've got the replacement handy.
But when it's finally given up the ghost, unlike the replacement of the Samsung DLP color wheel, changing the lamp is easy and can be undertaken by anyone. The only reason I'd call someone in to do this one is if it's covered by your warranty (and in fact, I did this ... three times!)
Where to Get a Replacement
MCM Electronics
I purchase my replacement parts from MCM Electronics. They have most everything, ship quickly, and have decent prices. The part number for your bulb is probably on a label on the side of your television, near the access panel. If not, it'll be on the lamp itself. There are many different DLP sets, so be sure to get a bulb that matches yours.
Change your Lamp in 5 Minutes
Required Tools
0:01 Remove the access panel Locate and remove the lamp access panel on the rear left of the set (left if you're facing the front of the set). There's one screw holding it in place. Remove that screw and ease the panel off. It removes most easily if you hold the back of the panel and slide it toward the side.
0:02 Remove the old lamp Unscrew the two brass screws on each end of the base. They won't come out completely as they're designed to stay on the lamp as it's removed. There's a pull-handle for removing the lamp. Give that a tug, and if it gives and stops, you may need to loosen the screws more.
Pull out the lamp. Don't touch anything other than the plastic casing as it can be hot. Put it in a safe place, especially if it isn't entirely dead and you wish to keep it as a last-ditch spare.
Once the lamp is out, make a mental note of the color wheel in the space where the light shines. You may meet this part in a future episode of your television's maintenance.
0:03 Insert the new lamp Look at the connector plug at the top of the lamp so you know what you're dealing with. Carefully slide the new lamp back in the same way the old one came out. That plug needs to connect with it's mate, and the two tabs that the screws are on will meet flush with the ends of the rails. It can be tricky to get the new lamp back in. I watched a repair guy struggle with it for quite a while once. He just kept wriggling it. I wouldn't recommend using force, however. Keep trying, it'll go.
Once it's in, tighten the screws that should already be there attached to the lamp.
0:04 Close up the access panel Put the cover back on the set and secure it with the screw. The television has a sensor and will not turn on if this panel is not in place. This is a safety feature as things get hot in there.
0:05 Turn on the TV Power up the television and if all went well, your set should start up like the old friend you know and love.
Next Steps
Good luck.